How to Spend Four Active Days in Mainz

When I moved to Germany, two decades ago, it happened in April, a month when the sun shines and trees display different shades of green leaves. I´ve spent all the time discovering Berlin and the rest of Germany in a bliss, and then boom! the November and December arrived, with their long dark days when darkness is taking over the city and our good moods. 

But times goes fast and here I was, again in the spring happy mood and always ready for cross-country adventures. As my body and mind went better fit into the long winter months, I decided that gathering memories from the sunny times will also help me resist the unfortunate times. Thus, my tradition to try every year, at least once, to go to a completely new beautiful place in Germany. 

Some years I had more time, some less, but the tradition is still alive. This year, I had the chance to spend four days in Mainz, a city close to Frankfurt I´ve heard so much but was unable to really represent it. Thus, the surprise as I couldn´t figure out what exactly will expect me there. 


We arrived by train - generously using the Deutschland Ticket and some discounted fares with my Deutsche Bahn 25 -  from Berlin, via Frankfurt, a city I wish I can spend more time to explore. It was a hot day, but the German kind of hotness, that rarely goes far from 33 Celsius. While finding our way to the hotel, took some time to explore the area near the main train station. 

A bit unsure about my travel expectations, I got immediately convinced that something great is about to happen. How can one expect something bad in a place where you see the first cotton candy machine in your whole life?

During our first hours of our visit we were also welcomed by rain. A lot of it. But the local transportation network is very efficient allowing to move fast from one place to another. If you are not using the famous Deutschland Ticket, a countrywide card covering all kinds of regular local transportation - except ICE and IC - you can use the Mainz card plus, which in addition to transport fees, also covers discounted or free entrance to various attractions in the city.

The Schiller statue looked unimpressed though.

FIRST DAY - FRIDAY 

INTENSIVE DISCOVERY



We arrived on a Friday, close to the afternoon, when all over Germany people are returning early from work. As it was the time of summer vacations too, there were more children and tourists are usual. 

As usual during my first hours in a city, I prefer to wander relatively aimless, looking at people, having my first personal impression about the streets and their inhabitants. 


The delicate balcony ironclad decorations corresponds to my first impression about the place: quiet, friendly, with people smiling at us and ready to help. 

As we were just walking, we ended up in the front of a complex of buildings with a massive white stone structure. While just looking at the place trying to figure out what it is about, a very friendly lady, seeing that we tourists, invited us to follow her. She opened the door revealing an underground tunnel-like structure, with windows displaying bottles of champagne. 

As we were walking, she explained to us about the local brand of champagne Krug, recommending us to try to book a tasting as soon as possible. I am not a big fan of champagne, but tasting may be a funny activity when abroad, so after we said our ´good bye´ to the super nice lady, we headed to something that looked as the offices of the company.

But it was late in the afternoon, on a Friday, and we couldn´t find anyone to give more information about where and when we can participate to such a tour. Early in the trip, we already found a reason to come back another time.


Although it was a failure for my travel planning skills, at least I got some interesting views, with a display of different historical buildings and architectural style.


The more we walked, the more unique corners, some of them looking completely out of time, we were about to discover. 


I was pleased to see that in Mainz there are not only cotton candy dispensers, but also free books shared with anyone curious to try something out of his or her intellectual comfort zone.


For me though, food is always a challenge worth taking, especially when I can have a bit of this delicious Nussschnecke - Nut bun - as sold at a local bakery since 1954, Werner´s. I will have the luck to try more local bakery products, mostly sweet - like Nusszopf - and the prices are just fitting our crisis travel budget. 

Full of energy, we just walk the narrow streets of the areas between Backhaushols and Dahlheimer Weg, bordered by stone houses. Mostly empty streets, feeling like we have this part of the city only for ourselves.


Like I will later discover while exploring more of Mainz in the next days, there is so much nature that appears even in the more surprising places, like covering completely the upper level of an old stone family house.

But not only nature is surprising here. Mainz is considered one of the  most expensive places to rent in Germany, given also the vicinity with the beating financial heart of Germany, Frankfurt/Main. Hence, the diverse structure of the population that may bring a lot of diversity on the menu. Like a Pizzeria serving Indian specialties, for instance.


After a bit of rest to our hotel, we are back on the Mainz roads, discovering various local attractions and most important buildings, such as the Römer Theatre - the reference to Rome is very common, from theatre to the shopping center, given that Mainz, once called Mogontiacum used to be a Roman castrum (visiting the Landesmuseum may reveal a lot of unheard of historical facts, by the way) -, an important local cultural institution. Here it is, the red brick so typical for the Berlin-Brandenburg area, only that the architectural structure looks more relaxed, Romanic style, with horizontal expansion instead of the sky-high, Baroque-cathedral like structures.


Real life is just about to happen on the streets of Mainz, and people start gathering near fountains or at a table outdoors at restaurants or cafés.

Gently decorated fassades bordering large public squares reminded me of Frankfurt/Main, but a more relaxed mood.

There is a certain geometry of the place that I like, although while turning my eyes 360 degrees around myself, I may also spot some brutalist buildings that do not fit the colourful narrative. Probably late additions after the war.


We are heading direction Rhine river, where I expect to calm down my architectural criticism.


The memorial of the German unity on Fischtor Platz which was inaugurated at the end of the 1950s is a reminder of the separation history between the two Germanies. 



We ended up as far as near the Rhine, where we made a long admiration stop at the intersection between the Adenauer Ufer and Stresemann Ufer, joining many youngsters and lovers, welcoming the beginning of the weekend outdoors. 


Alongside the esplanade, the area is decorated with works of sculpture that do add an intellectual touch to so much surrounding nature. This artistic project was inaugurated in 1969 and in the next days we will have the chance to pass by several times, discovering new works of art and artists.

The representations are mostly abstract but it was interesting to observe at what extent the artists tried or failed to establish a communication between their works and the landscape.

The surprises of all kinds accompanied our explorations.


After so much walking, we needed to find some cosy place to eat, being faced with too many choices. Could we try the Heiliggeist - Holy spirit - a former hospital - the oldest in Germany - turned into a hip restaurant? Or rather Cafe Portugal? Neubrunnenstraße near the Gutenberg Museum was not lacking in tasty offers. For those looking for just a fastfood, Chidoba, part of a network present in many places in Germany may be a tempting offer, especially if you love Mexican food.


The old Fischergasse, a natural presence in a city near the river where fish abunds and may have been a consistent source of revenue, may have lost it´s old glory, but maintained its typical architecture. 


Already a bit tired after so much walking, we kept taking visual notes of many places that may want to visit or get more information about later.


Like this unexpected sculpture in the front of the Institut für digitale Gesundheitsdaten

And as we are heading back to our hotel, tired of so many new experiences, we just discovered at Bockhaus Hole station, close to the Botanical Garten, a little flower field, with dahlias - in autumn - and sunflowers that were in full bloom. Everyone was able to pick up, and invited to leave some money in a box. 

A very beautiful ending of our first day in Mainz.


SECOND DAY -SATURDAY
SLOW TRAVEL

There is always a second day after the first day in a place. It usually comes along slower, with more clear aims in mind about what to do. The adrenaline rush ended and what is left is the curiosity and interest for getting closer to the soul of the city, to its feeling.


On the way to our activities, we may just pay a short visit to the Botanical Gardens nearby and the gardens of the Mainz University. I always find the presence of so many plants soothing therefore I am enjoying a very slow walk.


We also took the chance to tour slowly the Mainz University, one of the oldest in Europe, founded in 1477, currently displaying a very modern international campus and several specialties.



Our next objectives of the day is taking a round tour with a mini-train, that may take us from one place to another, checking visually the most important benchmarks, from the governmental area - Regierungsviertel - around Helmut Kohl Platz to the old historical city.

Luckily, the weather is sunny, so we can alternate some intensive museum visits - like Museum Gutenberg, paying respect and sharing historical information about the history of books and writing that Gutenberg started - to some insights into the local shopping culture. From the Römer Passage, we are discovering one by one various vintage shops and local creators, like Luamaya Jewels or Coco Style

The eating choice is easier this time, as we set for a delicious Italian meal at Da Vito - will need some time to forget those Fettuchine alla Romagna - followed by some Apfelstrudel at Florenz cafe nearby. Both are situated in the old city and I am enjoying the views while munching my inspired choices.

THIRD DAY - SUNDAY
EXPLORING THE DIVERSE HERITAGE


It´s Sunday, half through our stay, and I already feel at home while taking different buses or just ordering the pastry I want to try at the bakery. 



Last minute, I was able to find out about a tour of the Jewish cemetery, and I was pleased to find out more about the recent decision to include the cemetery alongside with other testimonies of Jewish life in Worms and Speyer in the UNESCO World Heritage. I covered extensively elsewhere this very important part of historical heritage, and hope to visit to Speyer and Worms soon to continue the exploration. Later in the day I had the chance to have a look at the architecture of the New Synagogue, situated close to the local governmental area, an example of new representations of Jewish life in Germany after the WWII. 



We started the day relatively late with no pressure to rush, therefore had more opportunities to admire the unique branding of some places. Compared to Berlin, everything is digitalised here, and paying by card is no challenge. One can access details about the bus schedule by using a QR Code.

Human relations seem very easygoing too. At the toys store WIRTH, I noticed the day before advertisments about playdates which may be such a helpful experience, especially for young mothers or mothers without a solid local network. 


The Baroque Cathedral of St. Peter is impressive with its elegant choice of colours and architecture, which expresses a special German Catholic sensibility.


It is aimed to impress, send a message of clear power - religious and political - with every detail playing a clear role in the expression of strength.


But there is a place that I wanted to visit at any price in order to discover works from another artist I´ve followed in different places around the world, from Zürich to Jerusalem: Chagall. This time, the Jewish artist created the stained glass for the St. Stephen Cathedral. This is the only German church where he worked when he was already at the advanced age of 91.


The pictures do not make justice of the blue shades wrapping the Biblical stories, as only the effect of real life can reveal to the eye the secrets of the stained glass. 


Such works are timeless and transcede religious details and time. As in Jerusalem, I felt grateful for the chance to admire live the works of such a versatile artist.


The works of Chagall bring here visitors from all over the world and Germany, and it´s hard to find a moment of perfect peace to fully admire the works. Bur even the groups on the move seem to generate the space allowing light to enter the space.


I´ve found peace though while walking the interior garden of the cathedral, a oasis of quietness in the middle of a perfectly manicured garden surrounding a former fountain.


After a busy day exploring, a comfort food is what I need. Mr Le Restaurant surprised me with a tasty meal, served in due time in a very stylish setting. Situated close to Gutenberg Museum, it offered the right amount of good food a visitor needs before getting back on the road. My Tokyo Udon had a good combination of sauces and their children menu is on top.


For the afternoon, all the plans were about exploring the both shores of the Rhine. Disappointed that I couldn´d find convenient boat rides, I was left with the only choice of admiring what was built and the entertainment options available around the river.


As the temperature is slowly hitting 30 Celsius close to midday, there are many people out of the beaches on both sides of the shores or just having a boat tour on the Rhine. 


For a Berliner, I am used to see street art everywhere, in the most unexpected places. However, in other places in Germany, it is allowed only in specific places, upon official approval. In Mainz, you can find street art in the Wiesbaden area, close to the Ludwigsrampe and Theodor-Heuss Brücke crossing. The topics are cartoonish, but there are some interesting works, especially those with a psychedelic inspiration.


There are eventually official tours taking place in the area, covering not only the graffiti part but also stickers and other alternative ways to communicate which is not confined to those areas. I will be very interested to be shared more about it one day.


Skaters are running around, and people on bikes, sometimes whole families, are touring the area looking maybe for a quiet place for an outdoor picknick.


We walk a few meters and we are welcomed by another wall painting, overviewing a parking place. My favorite piece of street art in Mainz so far.



The other shore of the Rhine looks more wild and less urban, with green areas whereone can seat and enjoy the sun going up and down without any bothering. Many families and groups of friends or couples are out picknicking giving to the whole area a family cosy feeling.


It feels so private and quiet that I can even imagine how relaxing it is to live in Mainz and spend every other summer weekend finding a new place to hide with a book and some Aperols. 


On both sides of the shores, there are summer beaches, with sand, and volleyball courts and Aperol. The entrance is free of charge and you can just get your chaise longue and enjoy your time, alone or with friends. I visited both beaches, but my favorite so far, was Rheinstrand. Kasteler Strand was just a bit too fancy for my mood, as I really felt that I will rather be surrounded by uncomplicated, young people.

After so many busy days doing exploring, hanging outdoors, without anything to do is the most pleasant ending of a very long and intense weekend.

FOURTH DAY - MONDAY

NOT READY TO SAY GOODBYE


We´ve done so much in the last three days, and we´ve been practically everywhere that I really feel like I am not yet ready to say ´good bye´. Although initially we had big plans to visit also Speyer and Worms while in the region, we ended up walking again and again the old cobblestone streets and checking local menus.

We started the day with a local breakfast at Werner´s bakery. Although they don´t have a special breakfast offer, we were able to combine various products to get enough energy for the remaining of the day: a brezel,with coffee and Nussschneke, again, looks like a very generous offer.


For a Monday morning, the Römer Passage looked almost deserted. It was like all those numerous groups of people we´ve meet all over the last days simply dissapeared. But shops are starting to open and I am spending most of the post-breakfast time checking stores and getting some souvenirs for home.

Mainz is also home of the famous Frosch - frog - cleaning products, and I am happy to take a look at their local offer. I am also purchasing some home glasses with the figure of the Mainzmännchen - the local equivalent of the Ampelmann, showing up on the traffic lights. 


At Jaeger, I am finding a new fridge magnet to complete my collection and as expected, there is a very friendly customer service helping out to make the best choice.


I even have a look at the tempting Wollzeit, but haven´t practiced knitting in ages and I am sure that I don´t have too much time in the near future to do it either.

I will spend most of the remaining time in Kirschgarten area, sipping my coffee or trying new icecream flavors surrounded by half-timbered houses watching the change of light and shadows at different times of the day.


For some savory lunch, I am just moving some benches away to taste a beef hotdog at the Curry Worscht which tastes decent enough, despite being a bit too burned out for my taste. Worscht is a local version of sausage and at this fast food it is available in different versions. 


With my camera, I am trying to catch as many new images as possible, to help the time stop. And definitly, Mainz has so many more treasures and histories yet to be revealed. 

With the carnival time coming up - the city is considered alongside with Düsseldorf and Cologne a famous location for the Fassenacht, that in 2025 is taking place between 1st of Janunary and the 5th of March - I can only figure out how the city may get a radical transformation. Some rumors say that Mainzer Oktoberfest is an experience not to miss in this part of Germany.


A last look at the noble architecture bordering the Rhine, and then, back on the road, in the train heading back to Berlin. My trip to Mainz was once in a lifetime experience, first time in a long while visiting a city only for the sake of exploring. It brings up so many feeling that hopefully will be able to bring back to life again soon.