Discovering Nantes

Before going to Nantes, I knew a lot about the local history - the edict of Nantes confirming the unification of Brittany with France, for instance, and a little bit more about the Loire Castles - but did not have a clear idea about the present of the city, its people and what to expect in terms of cuisine. After spending there one days and a half I left with the feeling that I would loved to stay more, not because it is France, but because everything has an inviting special flavour. And it is not only because they have delicious galettes, believe me.

A rainy date

I arrived in Nantes in a rainy afternoon, keen to find my hotel. But as it seems it was not easy and the hotel was not situated in the central area, I preferred to spend an hour walking the streets of the old city. I ended up in Creperie Heb-Ken that was packed with people, many of them tourists brought there by rain and posh recommendations. The crepes with apple were more delicious than the my first galette - with mushrooms. I was not very impressed by the taste as such, but appreciated the very fast service. I left in less than one hour, convinced that I should return for a proper review but even though I will pass by several times in the next 24 hours, I was too busy to review and visit new food places. However, it was a very good start to get acquainted with the people and the local food.

Once I was able to locate my accommodation, early in the morning the next day, I started my real Nantes adventure. Cultural and intellectual adventures, of course, as the city is not that big to get lost and safe enough to do not have problems at all - I went in some 'banlieu' but was nothing compared to what you can find in Paris or other big cities.

First stop before going on the tram was at a small bakery - boulangerie. Besides their important role in bringing good smells and tastes to the local tables, such places are real social connectors labs. I stayed there for around 5 minutes and observed how the ladies serving there were asking the customers about their children, relatives and the latest holiday plans. They sold me a Bottereau with a smile and invited me to come tomorrow too. Most probably, they were curious about me.

Round the city with the tram

If you don't have a good budget for taxi trips or if are not a car traveler, using Nantes public tram system is the best way to move around. It is cheap, goes very fast and looks very clean - much cleaner and elegant compared to the Paris subway. The bus service is also available, but I was so happy with the tram connections that I did not want to try anything else.

With the tram, I tried to go on and off several times, attracted either by a colourful graffiti, or an old building or something appealing for my photo guides.

My big next stop, after a little foodie adventure tasting some tartellette citron with a coffee, was in Jardin des Plantes. If you are commuting by train in Nantes or if you have some free time before going to your next destination, you should spend here at least 10 minutes. It is situated close to the train station and many passengers prefer to stay there and relax with their luggage for a couple of minutes or hours.

As for me, I stayed there for at least 2 hours and still not having enough of admiring the beautiful flowers and the creative green areas. As during this summer, several art installations were created in the city, part of the Voyage à Nantes project, the garden was offering a lot of surprises to the visitors: the laughing stones, the huge resting grass duck or the gigantic bank.

A historical adventure

With my lungs full of fresh air, I continued my journey with some historical discoveries: a visit at the Castle of the Ducs de Bretagne. The building constructions were started in the 15 century by the Francis II, the last duke of Brittany, and continued by Ann, his daughter. In 1784, Louis XV transformed the castle into an arsenal aimed to defend the Atlantic Coast. Nowadays, it hosts a permanent historical exhibition and several spaces dedicated to temporary exhibitions. I went to the one dedicated to the world wars, made a tour of the ramparts - with a lot of facilities for disabled persons and trolleys - and continued with the discovery of the past of Nantes at the dedicated history museum. Even though I pretend to know more than the average about European history, especially history of France, there it is always something new and interesting to learn. I did not have any idea before that the delicate 'petit beurre' are a local trademark, created till the late 1990s at the LU biscuit factory. The former factory left with only one tower out of 2, is nowadays hosting a lot of cultural events. Apparently, this is the fate of the old industry here - as in Berlin sometimes. The Manufacture, formerly a cigarettes factory, is fulfilling the same function today.

Wonderful people and their wonderful machines

After so much history, I wanted to walk more around and spent the next hour going up and down in the old city. My next destination was more modern and creative: the Jules Verne Museum. I was not such a big fan of Jules Verne - I've read some of the books but the only one I keep reading over and over again was the 80 Days Round the World. The museum offers a small overview of the works and life of the author, plus some samples of the books edited by different edition houses. A bit disappointed, I wandered a bit around the area - an Astronomic Observatory is in the neighbourhood, and went straight forward to the Island of Nantes.

There are many nice islands in and around Nantes, but nothing compares to the island of Nantes. It looks like a little artificial paradise - but not in the Baudelaire's sense. It is a world of imagination, with many machines that reminded me all the time about the courageous human mind. Too wise to go in a marry-go-round with marine animals and fish without scarring the children, I booked a trip with the mechanical elephant. To be honest, it was better than during my Chiang Mai trip - except maybe the noise. The huge wooden and metal machine is moving slowly, as a careful pachyderm, enough to make you feel that you are in a different world that we cannot always describe properly using our adult knowledge. The best is to not try to make too much philosophy and enjoy the moment. It is what I've done and prolonged my experience with a longer visit at the exhibition of machines.

Back to the foodie reality

After so much walking without eating anything else than food for thought, I felt that it is about time to go back in the city and try to find some place to eat. But it was a kind of underestimation of the local offers and two hours after, around 6pm, I was still hungry but too busy to take pictures of food shops or to talk with shop keepers about their products. Hard to resist the welcoming French and I was too curious to discover more and more about macaroons, baguettes, cheeses and various types of wines.

I did not miss some bookstores though, as I usually do in France, exploring the latest titles. The North African literature is always well represented and I am very happy to get in touch with a cultural and literary universe not always accessible in other parts of the world.

As there was the sales season, the shopping marathons were open, with amazing offers. But in France, shopping is an art, and the local branch of the famous Galleries Lafayette offers to the visitors interesting window concepts through art installations. The shopping exploration continued the next day, with some long investigations of the latest news in terms of kitchen tools. Another good destination for special shopping addicts is Passage Pommeray, with classical statues guarding the coming and going of the busy visitors. Shopping can be an aesthetic experience too.

After I saw a lot of interesting and tempting small and big restaurants - the classical Thai, Japanese and Indian, but also some special Cambodian menus - I took one hour break and tasted some Galette Provencale and Crepe Broceliande at St. Leonard. Eating outside in the summer is recommended, otherwise it is possible to find a place inside. The service was a bit slow, but worth waiting.

The main advantage of the summer trips is that even after 8pm you still have enough light time to continue the journey for at least 2 hours. It is what I did, walking slowly the streets, observing the simple architecture - sometimes with some Alsacian influences - and the green trees. Nantes is a city of parks par excellence, and the designation as the Green Capital of Europe for this year is fully justified. There are a lot of parks, not only used for playgrounds - the city is a paradise for children too, and the food is not the single reason for that - but as places to rest, recharge the batteries and contemplate the nature. Equally, the city authorities are preoccupied with healthy food and healthy life.

Thinking about the challenges of the modern cities, I arrived in Island Feydeau, bordered by the Erde, with many restaurants and places where the youngsters are hanging out and even a boat hotel. The fresh ambiance was the only thing I needed for ending such an intense day. I returned in the area the next day, for taking some pictures of the monuments in the memory of the French victims of the wars and the Resistance heroes.

As usually, after a first full day, the next stay is rather dedicated to put together all the details of the trip and to try to go beyond the tourist understanding of the city. After a long breakfast - a croissant and a small coffee - and some more writing, I went to the Talensac market, strongly recommended by other visitors of Nantes or some online tourist guides. I was waiting more action and interesting people around, but maybe it was only Wednesday. I felt like I am in a big supermarket missing the real life feeling from the big markets of my childhood. However, the products were great and tempting and with many local offers, such as the beautiful Senegalese mangoes or the Moroccan specialities, as well as the tasty looking home-made pasta. Nothing to say about the chesses, as it was exactly what I usually expect from a French market.

After more walking and another small stop in Jardin des Plantes - with more kids running around in the maze of trees and flowers, I went to my TGV, heading to my dear Paris. I felt completely uplifted, ready for new culinary experiences and with a completely new understanding of France. This country means something else in each department and was happy to be part for a short while of the Brittany experience. Promise to be back soon, Bretagne!

For more photo stories from Nantes, check my Pinterest board: http://pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/nantes/

Foodie adventures in Alsace

Of course that my main reason to visit Colmar and Mulhouse was the discovery of unexpected cultural heritage but I also had another intention for being there: having a look and more than a bit at its foodie treasures. 

As many other border regions, Alsace succeeded to mix pretty well the best of French and German cuisine, with a lot of cheese variations - did you know that cheese can be addictive too? - accompanied by equally rich range of beers and wines. 

My visit was too short, but I did my best to have as many tasty treats as possible for having a better gourmet idea about what this special region can offer.  Here are my main experiences:

French pastry is delicate, filled with soft layers of delicious. In between them you can eventually find some caramelized fruits, with scents of cinnamon or cloves. Cheers to the French tartes, s'il vous plaît! You can eventually accompany it with a glass of Liness, a moderately gas-lemonade, with waters from Soultzmatt.

I am a friend of the usual German bretzel, and during my travels through the country, especially in the South, I noticed a much better dough, more consistent and flour-less than my usual provider from the Zoologische Garten kiosk - yes, sometimes I am as anti-sophisticated as that. The Alsacian bretzel is bigger, softer, golden on the outside and mouse-wathering on the inside. Should I connect the secret of the dough with the consistency of the everyday French bread - baguette included?

Especially during the winter season, Alsace and particularly Colmar, are a favorite destination for winter markets lovers. The usual street food menu includes the mulled wine and many meaty take away delicacies - meaty lovers will be delighted to discover that many local plates do include a mixture of at least three separate kinds of meat - on the savory side. The sweets can be as simple as a gingerbread, preferably generously and colourfully decorated. 

I love food markets, in Berlin and elsewhere, because it shows the local diversity and specific food customs, in addition to the chance of grabbing some cheap treats, enough to keep you filled until your next destination. The covered market in Colmar looks very clean and quiet, compared with my experience in Nantes and other places in France. However, if you are looking for more action, you can go to Mulhouse where in the weekends near the Cathedral there are open air food markets with even more local products.

People were so nice and ready to help and share information, that I hardly wanted to leave. The prices are moderate - France, in general, compared to Germany, is at least 25% expensier - but a red wine, a rarity in a region famous for its dedication to white wines, is always worth the investment.

But there is a special food which I can never have enough: cheese. My passion brought me as far as going to a German dairy farm or spending some quality time learning about cheese at Le Gruyère cheese farms in Switzerland. You can always find in my fridge some special sortiment, the stinkier the better, trying at least once the week to offer myself some special cheesy treat. At Romantica Hotel-Restaurant in Colmar I ordered a special cheese plate, featuring a local Gorgonzola production - on the top, two slices of Emmentaler, bottom, and the new for me Munster -  or Menschterkaas. Produced in the town of Munster, from special milk of the cows in the Vosges area, this cheese is a strong tasting but soft, with a high and heavy milk consistency. 

Tarte à l'oignon - onion tart - is another Alsacian specialty, served with some fresh veggies on the side. The perfect one has confits onions and also some traces of mild cheese, which made it a perfect rich breakfast to inaugurate a day full of travels.

I am rather a tea sniffer than a tea drinker, as I am always happy to smell new fragrances, which I rarely find satisfatory when served in a taste. At Palais des Thés in Colmar I've spent some perfumed time learning to discern between various fragrances and combinations from all over the world. I particularly loved the mixture between roses and green tea.

Talking about unique combinations, the nearby Comptoir de Mathilde offers the saucy variant with pastis and mojito - strongly alcoholized - mustard. Not sure how to combine them with real food, but it sounded exotic enough to catch my attention and foodie curiosity.

Maintaining the same register of food curiosities, the next stop was at Jacques Bochel Confisserie, serving chocolate, many of them real piece of art - such as the flowers shaped ones. There are also exquisite unique tastes, such as the cactus-based pencils from the image or even some sake chocolate. Pas mal, pas mal du tout...

I assure you that in fact, most of the time was well spent tasting 'normal' bites of food, such as the small Kougelhopf - a German inspired brioche with dried raisins. 

Gouffres - the local variant of waffles - and crepes are one of the most popular street foods here, and at one of the stalls, I had a bit of a savory crepe, filled with...surprise, surprise...cheese. The dough of both the gouffre and the crepe were so consistent and thick, impossible to compare with the similar street treats I had in Germany though.

In Alsace people happily drink as much beer as they do wine. The good waters of the Bas-Rhin river allows to follow the usual purity laws applicable in Germany. The beer I had was moderately strong and with a mild beer taste. Perfect match for some cheese, isn't it?

Talking about cheese - never enough words for such a love story - my last meal in Colmar was at Koifhus-Winstub, a relatively touristic destination, close to the Little Venice where I tried some mozzarella with pesto and olive oil, served on a bed of fresh tomatoes. Well portioned and deeply satisfying. 

Unfortunately, my trip in this part of France time was relatively short this time - my previous visits always covered more than three days and included at least one wine tasting at one of the many wineries part of the Alsace Wine Route. However, it was intense enough to give me a sweet taste of what I need to think about for returning soon. If not for their delicious honey, and wines, at least for the cheese. 

For more inspiration from Alsace, especially Colmar, check the dedicated Pinterest board

What to do in Düsseldorf

Düsseldorf is the newest discovery of 'must see' towns I visited lately. I know that my impressions about a city can be largely influenced by the weather and this time I had an amazing good weather on my side. Plus a big parade of hunters that lasted for hours and a big fair on the occasion of France's National Day (14 Juillet). But all those subjective considerations put apart, the city has everything you may need to visit: modern art exhibitions, especially on the streets where you can often find pieces of art in the middle of the most usual venues, pleasure trips on Rhine, a huge adventure part - that I did not visit, but heard the screams of those enjoying it - fine restaurants and shopping attractions. 

Compared to Berlin and many other cities from the Eastern part that I visited recently, it has a coherent architecture - a lot of Art Nouveau samples that I loved- and a better life standard reflected in the quality of customer service, hotels and restaurants.

I might be superficial to compare it to Cologne - especially due to the historical competition when it comes to the Carnival, but also economically and socially. But somehow, I had the same good feeling as after visiting Cologne and the areas around years ago. Translation: if I will ever have on my mind a plan to move somewhere else in Germany, this city is on the top list of choices.

Running with hunters

After arriving relatively fast at my hotel and discovering that I made a so-and-so decision, we run as fast as possible to the center for seeing as much as possible from the city. We did not run the marathon till the center, but were helped by the very efficient public transportation. Even if a Sunday, the trams and S-Bahns were arriving almost every 15 minutes and were plenty of tourists from all over the world, but especially from Japan and France. No wonder, as both countries have their own cultural institute in town. With the S-Bahn one can also go outside the city, such as Duisburg. Plus, due to the good connections to Dortmund, Bielefeld and Essen within one hour of travel by train, I may consider to return to see more cities in a fast and efficient way, while continuing to discover Düsseldorf. 

With so much planning in my mind for the next trips, we reached the station Heinrich Heine, our final stop for this part of the day. Heine was born here and his first residence is nowadays the Heinrich Heine bookstore, hosting various literary events. The bookstore was closed this time. 

If you plan to visit the city this summer, expect a lot of events on Sundays, on the occasion of the celebration of 725 years since the creation of the city. Most of them are parades, as the one we stumbled upon: hunters of all ages and genders dressed in green uniforms and holding abundance horns full of flowers. Some of them were horseback riding, some were playing instruments. As I am not a fan of hunting and do not like huge gathering either, I preferred to go finding small streets around to see how the city really looks like. According to the newspapers, more than one million people attended the ceremonies, most of them locals.

The main attraction of a summer afternoon, in case that your children do not cry for spending some time at the Adventure Park - no, thank you, I've been to Disneyland once and it's enough for this life - or you have a date of one of the many restaurants and bars - all styles and budgets are welcomed - is to go on the grass and look at the Rhein. You can take a beer or a pick nick basket  and some books too. It is free and quite relaxing. 

Lively cultural life

For dedicated museum visitors, there are plenty of opportunities, from modern art galleries and the museum of contemporary art, to some less challenging options, such as the Film Museum or the Hetjens Museum where I discovered a little piece of the world history written on pieces of ceramics. Another artistic stop was the Kunst im Tunnel, where I admired some samples of Brazilian modern art, unfortunately without too much explanations or guidance (the catalogue was in the printing process, I was told). Compared to Berlin, where one can find from time to time some museums open on Mondays too, for tourist purposes, in Düsseldorf everything is sealed that day so I missed to see more local art. 

I tried to compensate with some lessons and local architecture. Art nouveau is well represented, an outstanding sample is Carsch Haus, but also anonymous houses that you can spot in the residential areas. The most wanted location for modern minds and photographers is the Medienhafen, with a Frank O. Gehry signed construction. 

After more photos and a short documentation visit at the Hyatt nearby, we went back in the historical area. Before that, we tried to walk on one of the bridges, but after 10 minutes of hardly moving between joggers, bikers, families with children and huge stuffed animals brought from the adventure parks and teenagers, we decided that we rather need to be lazy tourists and have a coffee somewhere. This somewhere was very close to the Königsallee - or 'Kö' for the shopping friends - the place where people spend a lot of money in exchange of small cute things. The good news was that everything was closed and we only had a window shopping tour. In one area, you were walking on the pavement with the name of the famous personalities born in town - Heine included - and thus, we learned more than what to write on the next luxury shopping list. As usual, wherever you are, be careful how you use your eyes. When looked up in the clear sky of the summer day, we spotted more samples of Art Nouveau and interesting sculptures.

Saying good bye for now

After a rather relaxing day of travel, we started the next day decided to get more local colours and we headed to the market. Maybe it was too early or not the right day for the market, but with the exception of the beautiful flowers and some corners with spices and teas, we did not find anything interesting enough for the foodie lovers. The trip to the food court of the local Karstadt brought more information about French cheeses, while the visit at the bakery revealed my ignorance about the impressive sorts of German breads. A local frozen yoghurt diminished the tension and we tried to use the hours left visiting the Information Center - the main point for historical tours organized regularly, in German and English - and wandering in the residential area or simply admiring the boats coming and going on the Rhine. We did not travel by airplane - the local airport is busy connecting not only different German cities, but also Germany to the rest of the world, Asia and US among others - but by fast train so going to the train station was extremely easy with the S-Bahn. In the area around there are many oriental shops and an impressive amount of Moroccan bakeries.

Apparently, I have a lot to learn about the city and definitely I should return soon.  

For more visual insights about the city, visit my Pinterest board: http://pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/d%C3%BCsseldorf/

24 Hours in Freiburg (im Breisgau)

The grey skies are wrapping the mountains covered by forests into a mysterious mist. Short rain showers for a couple of minutes prevented us twice from getting out of the train station, when, after 7 hours of ride from Berlin all we wanted was to go out, freely move our feet for more than 10 minutes and have a deep breath of fresh air. This is how we spent our first from the 24 hours in Freiburg (im Breisgau), as I am back in Baden-Württemberg and its spectacular Black Forest (Schwarzwald).

Freiburg - adding im Breisgau is meant to make the difference with the homonymous city from the neighbouring Switzerland - is considered Germany's warmest city, which still have to be proved for me, but obviously, its other famous brand, as one of the greenest cities in the country is demonstrated in multiple ways. From the solar panels at the central train station to the ecological public transportation or the green patches all over the city, as on the buildings of the Guntraumstraße, the eco-proof of the city can be noticed everywhere.

Happily, until we checked in at our hotel and got ready for the discovery of the city, the weather changed dramatically for the best. With a 24-hour transportation card - available for 6 EUR.- we can move fast, trying to see as much as possible within a short time. Walking slowly from the train station we arrive close to the historical center, starting our sightseeing with theroundly-shaped Stadttheater, the oldest and most prestigious theatre institution in Freiburg, with an alternative repertoire of classical and avantgarde plays, appealing to both young and more conservative audiences. The building in itself is a great example of Art Nouveau architecture.

Nearby, the glass and chrome facade of the University Library is surrounded by a sea of bikes, is reflecting the old and new buildings in the neighbourhood. Albert Ludwig University is relatively young - compared to other European universities - being founded in 1457 during the Habsburg dinasty - but has an impressive palmares of former students, among which Hannah Arendt, Hans-Georg Gadamer, Edmund Husserl, Martin Heidegger or Rudolf Carnap. 

Slowly walking the old cobblestone streets, we are surrounded by colourful and spectacular looking houses, which remind me of the ambiance of small towns in Switzerland and France, both countries one hour by car or train from here.  

From Middle Ages facades to massive Art Nouveau decorations, there is a multitude of styles and influences displayed in the front of us.

We stroll the small shops on Kaiser Josephstrasse, charmed by the colourful upper levels, with windows abundantly decorated by red flowers. 

With my coffee time slightly overpassed, I am in one of those days when I can easily have a chocolat for dinner. The over 100 year old Confisserie Gmeiner won my heart with a hot chocolate, well sipped surrounded by small plastic bags with delicious looking little treats. 

And this only opened the appetite for something even more serious. At a local recommendation, we are heading for the Markthalle, which compared to some similar food markets I've been to in Berlin looks not only elegant, and even has a champagne and wines bar, but also offers a wide range of cuisines from all over the world, from France and Italy to Middle East and Asia. 

The Vegetarian dish at Rollo Arabico was exactly what I needed after so much time spent on the road: a crispy dough filled with various cooked vegetables, accompanied by fresh salad, tomatoes and carrots, covered by a garlic sauce. 

The weather next day is more friendly from the early morning, and after a short breakfast, we continue our short exploration of Freiburg. As for now, we continue the observation of the special architecture, richly decorated with facades mathematically divided into smaller and smaller surfaces surrounded by elegant stone carvings. 

As being part of the over 12,000 hectares area of wine growing in this part of Germany, Freiburg proudly displays some vineyards samples just in the middle of the town, one of the many advantages of cultivating a green city brand.

The small details do make Freiburg a special city. For instance, the carefully carved cobblestone designs in the front of the stores, aimed at giving an idea about what is on the other side of the door, only by images. Therefore, while there, you better watch carefully your steps.

The power of details is overwhelming once you get closer to the Münsterplatz, which hosts the most impressive samples of traditional architecture in this part of Germany.

The older and newer architecture is easily integrated into the contemporary landscape. Bridges are connecting buildings and the colours bright your day. Freiburg was founded in the 12th century but most of his historical city was destroyed during the November 1944 bombings of the Royal Air Force during operation TigerFish. However, compared to other cities that went through the same episode, there are no ugly 1960s style of buildings, as the renovations took into account the original style and most of the historical constructions were brought back to life. 

If happens to visit Freiburg on Friday, there is a huge open market taking place on the streets surrounding Münsterplatz, probably one of the biggest I ever visited in Germany, introducing mostly farmers' products and other regional goods.  

As our time to leave is getting closer, we take another short tour around the old streets, going through the towers' arches. 

Our 24 Hours in Freiburg (im Breisgau) went faster than expected, and I know that the best of it is waiting for me for (at least) another, hopefully longer, visit.  

For more inspiration, check the dedicated Pinterest boad.

48 Hours of Slow Travel in Colmar

 Freiburg (im Breisgau) wasn't my final leg of my trip in the South-Western part of Germany. The aim on my four-day trip was far beyond the borders of Germany: my beloved France, this time for discovering a little town everyone is talking about during the winter but which looks charming soaked by the summer sun, Colmar. From Freiburg, you can arrive there within an hour and half, with a train until Breisbach followed by a bus a couple of minutes later which arrives in the front of the generously decorated Art Nouveau train station. 

I visited Alsace several times in the previous non-blogging years, but most of my travels were around Strasbourg, which is one hour away by train from Colmar. This time, I wanted to spend as much slow-travel time as possible in this little town, with its delightful little colourful half-timbered houses.

The Alsace cuisine - a most detailed post about the savour discoveries I made coming up next - is a mixture of French and German cuisines, with the savory dishes infused by meat mixtures and a lot of kraut, and the desserts made of  the finest French pastry. While walking in the historical center, the naturally sweet tarte pommes canelle at L'Essence du The reminded me of my neverending love for the elegant French cuisine. 

With so many beautiful streets and houses to discover, step-by-step, no worries that I am overindulging. Most of the houses look as diverse as a perfect setting for a Romantic fairy tale. Where do you hide, my Prince?

There are also works of modern architecture and squares which bring you back to our times, but in a grandiose way that reminded me of the biggest flowers' park in Nantes, a place that I had the pleasure to explore a couple of years ago.

My heart is with the old buildings and their historical secrets though. Koifhus, a former douane near the Petite Venise and a couple of steps away from the traditional winter market, a famous destination during the winter, offers an architectural journey through the centuries, with its Gothic and Renaissance additions.

Museums lovers are offered some alternatives, starting with the famous Museum Bartholdi on 30 rue des Marchands, dedicated to the French sculptor who designed the Statue of Liberty. Or the Toy Museum, or the Contemporary Art Space Andre Malraux. 

Another attraction is The Village of Hansi and his Museum, dedicated to the local artist Jean Jacques Waltz, situated on the opposite side of the streets where another local wonder is situated: The House of Heads - Maison des Têtes. This 17th century building is noteworthy for the 106 grotesque heads covering the vertical directions of the construction. In 1898, the wine exchange moved here and August Bartholdi added the cooper on the top.

However, nothing compares with the fame of the Little Venice - La Petite Venice - an intricated water labyrinth that can be explored by gondolas lead by French gondolieri. The bridges covered by colourful flowers add a special intimate vibe to the ride. The perfect ingredients of a Romantic afternoon, navigating through the water alleys borders by colourful houses and outdoor restaurants to be tasted eventually much later in the evening.

When the evening arrives, it seems that the busy groups of tourists disappeared miraculously. The streets are almost empty and the restaurants buzz with the Babel of languages and people. The old streets are wrapped in smooth lights and the blanket of silence uncover secret layers of human history.

My visit to Colmar was one of those calm, uneventful and agenda-free trips, when I enjoy the good life and easily becoming familiar. After all, I always feel at home in the French language, and despite all odds, it looks like an unbreakable love. Time to consider more trips to France over the next months, maybe?

For more inspiration from Colmar, check the dedicated Pinterest board