Autumn Day Out in Hamburg

Since moving to Germany, Hamburg was at least once the year on my travel radar. Therefore, after every trip, I keep adding this Hansa city on my next travel agenda, because I can't simply live without being there as often as possible. For me, it has the flair and charm and so many temptations that call me back over and over again. Also, only 3 hours away from Berlin, with the IRE - 29,90 EUR two ways - it makes it an easy and affordable destination for those days when I really want to get out of my hood. 

Due to a stupid mistake/misunderstading, as we took the wrong train - instead of the IRE (the regional train) the IC (inter-city) we had to stop twice, once in the empty statio of Wittenberge, and took another train suited for our train ticket level (unless we wanted to pay at least 75 Euro one way), we arrived a bit later as expected. However, the advantage of the traveller was to ride through the autumn countryside landscape of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, with its large fields with quiet cows having their breakfast. As my friend was visiting Hamburg for the first time, we made a first stop to the colourful St. Georg, with its multi-kulti restaurants and massive street art.

Autumn is having his last breath those days and we went for a walk in Alt Alster, where the rotten greens and yellow got a wake up call from the colourful yachts crossing the water.

At this time of the morning, it was the most quiet area, with only a couple of families and dog walkers hurrying around.

The gold leaves beds on the pavement were moving slowly in the pace of the mild wind, announcing the usual Hamburg rain later in the day.

After the hustle and bustle of the last weeks and especially hours when we were thinking at least once to change our travel plans and maybe to visit Schwerin instead, which is also a beautiful autumn travel choice, the quiet nature corners around Alt Alster brought back the peace of mind.

As my friend was curious to discover more of Hamburg, we break our Zen meditation, going back to the concrete world. The 5-star Hotel Atlantic Kempinski, since 1909 a luxury destination in the city, is welcoming us to the everyday Hamburg realities. So bad we don't have time for more than a picture this time. 

We don't have time for Hamburger Kunsthalle either, but at least we stop, again for an improptu of the interesting modern architecture in the area.

We may be in a hurry, but not insensitive enough to notice how autumn shades are outlining completely differently the architecture, by giving a completely different autumn feeling to the surrounding.

The boat restaurants offering typical Hamburg fish dishes are still full of people having a meal with a view of the peaceful seafront.

When the rain makes its entrance, we are rather exploring various indoor locations, discovering Art Nouveau ceilings in passages I've been dozen of times before without noticing anything. 

The shopping avenues are crowded, despite the weather, and when not jealous of the luxury options people have here, compared to my proletarian Berlin, I keep looking up searching for architectural details.

The typical brown-reddish architecture disposed geometrically perfect in a square, allowing the natural light right in the middle of it to reflect the perfect shapes of the opposite walls.

Symmetry is not always boring, and playing with shapes and sizes might create interesting architectural works. This building is an example and it is one of my favorites in Hamburg so far.

Rain and so much walking requires for some serious fuel. We stop for a vegetarian burger at BetterBurgerCompany where you can also charge your phone - in exchange of some coins - followed by a tasty coffee and cake stop at Espresso House. I couldn't leave Hamburg without having a bit of the famous puff pastry star Franzbrötchen. A local speciality inspired by the French croissant, it has a sweet, cinnamon-induced taste, but it is also available in variants which include cream or marzipan. 

Do we need to do anything else than just strolling the wet cobblestone-streets and enjoy the moment, no hurry, no rush to check a long list? At least not this time, but I know some serious travel writing assignments will call me back to reveal some best hidden gems in this Hanseatic City.

My friend kindly introduced to one of my favorite German cities was definitely charmed by it and wants to come back. Me too, at least twice in the next months, and I am happily looking forward to it. Bis bald, Hamburg!

For more travel stories, follow my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ilanatravels

A Photographic Walk through Hamburg

I've lost count how many times I visited Hamburg, but every time I've been there it rained, at least for a couple of minutes. This time, helped by the IRE Berlin-Hamburg Spezial Ticket, I am together with my friend who is here for the first time and luckily, for the duration of our stay, I can't see and feel any drop of rain. Perfect for a long and fast walk with my camera ready to catch the best visual attractions of this city.

From the train station, we walk fast until St. George area, which I extensively explored during my last visit, more than six months ago. With the hip restaurants and street art, this part of Hamburg can be easily compared - without being the same - with Berlin's Kreuzberg. 

The neat geometry of the red-bricked houses bordering streets that seem to never end is one of my favorite visual hobbies when in this city. 

Someone not too much in love with Hamburg, might consider the above-mentioned style as a lack of sophistication, but for such tastes, there are enough samples of classical architecture to soak your curious eyes in.

City of sailors and adventurers, Hamburg benefited of the curiosity of its older and newer residents who once back home or settled here, wanted to help this city to shine at least as much as the places they visited during their travels. Like this beautiful building on Georgsplatz, a sample of fine Venetian architecture.

Another favorite of mine is this heavily decorated building on Mönchebergstraße. It seems that the architects creativelly used any single part of the fassade to create volumes and new angles. Did you spot the little stone boat on the top already? If yes, your observation skills are really good. Although I've seen it a couple of times and even photographed it, I haven't been able to see it at first...

The 19th century building of the city hall is an institutional and architectural staple of the city. The eclectic Neo-Renaissance style is a visual challenge. Besides its local administrative function, the city hall is also the set of the local government, and tours of the main halls are possible.

As I visited this place also many times, I am looking for some specific angles and corners. The interior yard takes me instantly in an Italian piazza, preferably from one of the places famous for their classical architecture. For a while, I just forget that I am in Hamburg, and in a city hall, nevertheless...

My eyes are browsing the space, admiring every single secret corner which reveals more space and style, completing admirably the rest of the construction. 

There is more to see, and the Venetian charm is throwing its spell on me, either when I am looking at the delicate swans resting under the sun near the small channels, or I am spying with my little camera eye the elegant shopping avenues guarded by stone-laced decorations.

HanseViertel is the beating heart of the luxury shopping in the city, but today, I am off checking rather the architectural details instead of the elegant outfits prices. The old buildings received some modern touch creating different, more open and transparent visual impressions.

Original details and inserts are sometimes surprising, especially when it comes to the esmerald blue tiles decorating some of the fassades.

Or the little blue guardians on the columns separating the window walls. The style in this area goes far beyond the complicated Venetian influences.

As the city was ready for Christopher Street Day, most buildings were decorated for the occassion with the rainbow flag, a symbol of tolerance and openness which Hamburg breeth deep, even long time before Berlin.

Our next stop is to see the famous Elbphilharmonie which was finally inaugurated the last year. From far away, it looks like a snow-capped mountain crowning the warehouses neatly lined on the borders of the river.

Taking as many pictures as possible of those buildings, which at the first sight look abandoned for centuries, but where sometimes you can find hidden treasures such as colourful oriental carpets from the finest worshops in the Middle East, is one of my usual habits when here.

But even looking into the far away depths is useful for your photographic impressions, when you bring your eyes closer to home, you can catch interesting details, such as this money collecting pole putting on trial the money throwing skills of the visitors staying on the small bridge nearby.

It is lunch time in the last day of the week, and at least for a while, the buildings are becoming more animated, with colourful silhouettes visible on the outdoor balconies, taking some fresh breath of air before the last sprint into the weekend.

More than any other previous trips, my journey this time is like a travel round the most interesting European cities. While looking at this orderly disposition of houses of different sizes and colours I instantly think - and dream - about Amsterdam, a city I definitely need to revisit soon.

While - as usual - daydreaming about trips and travels we arrived in the front of the futuristic boat shape of the Philarmonie. You can visit it for free, but the entrance is limited to a specific number of visitors, therefore, you need to be there as early as possible to avoid the usual busy hours.

Honestly, I had completely different expectations when insisted to go to the top of the Elbphilharmonie. First and foremost, I wanted to have a look at one of the concert hall and the specific match between high-end acustics and architectural design. But it is not possible, unless I want to book a ticket to one of the concerts. Maybe one day, if I finally decide to spend more than a couple of hours in this city, as I usually do.
Second, once on the top of the building, you have a perspective over the city, but unfortunatelly, there is no map or short written description of what do you view and what part of the city you can see in one of the four main directions.
Despite those shortcomings, the view is impressive and offers a completely different perspective on the city.

When I've seen the city from the top, there is a completely different appreciation I do have now for the many spectacular buildings encountered on my wanderings. It seems that the vision of a strict, yet rebelious architectural soul, is a main feature of this city that never cease to amaze me.

Talking about surprises, for the first time I am visiting the famous KomponistenQuarter, a small Dutch-looking hidden street dedicated to the very active musical life of the city, which started centuries before was any discussion about building an ElbPhilharmonie.

The narrow Peterstraße bordered by typical red-bricked houses ending in curvaceous roofs, hosts six museums dedicated to famous German and international musicians who were born or associated at certain extents their life with the city of Hamburg: Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach - from the famous Bach family, Fanny and Felix Mendelssohn, Johannes Brahms, Georg Telemann, Johann Adolf Hasse and Gustav Mahler. 

Besides beautiful architecture, Hamburg also has natural parks like the Planten un Blomen the perfect natural retreat you need to put together your thoughts after such an intensive visit in this surprising German city.

As in many other occassions, this trip was also an opportunity to spot places I would love to visit the next time. With a couple of museums and some children attractions added on my list, I am glad to announce that there will be a new visit to Hamburg. Hopefully soon!

For more inspiration for a short-trip to Hamburg, check the dedicated Pinterest board covering also photos from previous visits.

A fast-forward visit to Hamburg. And the promise to return

After more than a year of absence, I returned to Hamburg in the last week of December last year. I didn't need any special reason but to see this beautiful city once again, even only for a couple of hours this time. On the way from the train station, the impressive building of the Opera reminded me that I am in a city with a very active cultural life.

Maybe I wasn't fully honest when I said that I did not have a special reason to come back. As a long-time lover of surrealist art, I wanted for a long time to see the exhibition at Hamburger Kunsthalle, featuring the main representatives of this art movement such as Max Ernst, Salvador Dali, Victor Brauner, Yves Tanguy, but also artists relatively less known outside the connoiseurs circle, such as Leonora Carrington, depicting beautiful imaginary worlds. In a world already upside down, we still need the wake-up call of the surrealists.

One of the most impressive part of any trip to Hamburg is walking the streets and just admiring the architecture lacking any usual inhibition of keeping up with a 'golden measure' or a classical style. 

The diversity of styles is an accepted reality, offering equal foot to any work of creative architecture, from the massive game of stone blocks near the port, to the meticulously decorations of the city hall building. 

When I visited, it was the winter season, with markets and people hurrying up to buy the last presents. However, regardless of the time of the year Nikolaiquartier is always a vibrant destination for high-end luxury shopping or food. Unfortunately, this time I didn't have time to visit one of my favourite restaurants in this city, Saliba, where I always stop for a taste of the Middle Eastern cuisine. But, there will be a next time, no worries. If you want to grab a snack on the way to the port, I recommend Amber cafe, on Schaarsteinswegsbrücke street, with delicious pastry and an elegant ambiance.

Hamburg is also called the 'Venice of the North', for its many bridges over the Elbe, connecting especially old industrial warehouses and buildings that nowadays often host hubs of creativity and family businesses. Out of the many city bridges, the best for a great view over the city architecture are Mahatma Gandhi Bridge and Wilhelminer Bridge. 

All the ports look sad in the winter, but the small white boats floating on the water bring more dynamism to the grey landscape. As it wasn't cold enough, the area was full of people especially children, running back and forth around.

There was another secret reason why I wanted so much to visit Hamburg: to have a look at the Elbphilharmonie, recently inaugurated, which changed completely the area around Hafencity. The much delayed construction project involved couple of controversies, but now it is time to enjoy the high performance of the concert hall and to admire the architectural achievements.

The concert hall can be visited for free, at specific time intervals. The entrance is free, but if you plan to visit during the week-end, you may be surprised to discover that all the tickets are booked hence the recommendation to get your ticket online - reservation that can be done for an additional 2 EUR. fee. At least, I have one more reason to return to Hamburg for a full coverage of the beautiful philharmonic. 

My last - and the most delicious stop of my trip - involved an hour long afternoon tea experience, at The George Hotel. Not before a slow tour of St.Georg area, with its many alternative stops and the mosaic of international food counters. Apparently, I just found out another reason to return here. Maybe I need to spend a full weekend for getting my friendship with Hamburg back on the track.

In other words, see you soon, Hamburg!

For more inspiration about what to see and do in Hamburg, check the dedicated Pinterest board: https://de.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/hamburg/