Spending a Short Relaxing Time in Leipheim, Germany

After almost two years of pandemic struggle, my first long trip outside Berlin was in one of the regions that I always like to visit in Germany: the colourful and history-rich Bavaria/Bayern. The main aim was to enjoy a full adventure day in Legoland while catching up with my travel to-do-list on the side. 

My headquarters for this trip was Leipheim, where affordable stay near Legoland was secured thanks to a travel package I purchased via Limango Travel, that included accommodation and the entry price to Legoland. I didn´t know what to expect from this place, but as usual, I trusted my traveller intuition and started to explore the place.

The main impression you got out of the train is the castle. From the top of the hill, it overviews the whole area, surrounded by a defense wall. Nowadays, it is a great place to have a panoramic view over the region, but once upon a time, it served as a defense structure. The first stone of the castle was laid as far as the 11th century, but different styles were added across centuries, until the current Renaissance-style. 

We arrived there during the weekend and walking the streets of Lepheim on a Sunday, which is a very quiet day normally in Bavaria, looked as we had the place to ourselves. I don´t remember to have seen any human walking, and only few cars were slowly breaking the surrounding silence.

But even without too many sightseeings to check, it was enough. The castle slopes, for instance, were offering some unexpected surprises, with statues hidden under the lush ve getation. Not hidden enough for not caughing the eye of the hungry traveller.

Walking at least twice the day around this landscape was a soothing experience, after two years of pandemic. I was really longing for the neverending horizons.

There are a lot of agricultural activities happening around, from old times. However, frequent wars and conflicts affected the region´s wellbeing. During the Napoleonic wars, for instance, famine and hardship affected Lepheim. The first good harvest afterwards, in 1818, was celebrated as Kinderfest - children´s fest, maybe in reference to the children who were no more victims of famine - and since then, the second weekend of July is an occasion for local celebrations. 

As a tourist, I just enjoy the long walks and the spectacular sky. At the time, I was not too much into jogging, but I suppose someone doing it would have really appreciate the perspective as well. If you are looking for a treat, there is a bakery that can offer you some special local pastry - Bäckerei Müller.

But I am always appreciating the urban feeling, and Leipheim delighted my eyes with some colourful half-timbered houses, in the local style and colours.

Although we haven´t see any tourist around, there are some historical tours leading the visitors to different places around - and there is even an ostrich farm few kilometers away - but most off the roads lead to the castle.

Personally, I liked it more how it does look from the street, as it gives you the feeling of entering a fairy tale place, or at least a Middle Ages saga. But there are no stories of honor or love added to its, mostly stories of fight, bloodbath and conquest.

As a contemporary historian, I am looking for signs of the old times, and more than once I was pleased to notice in Leipheim old architectural remnants and company writing that were most probably from the end of the 19th century. 

And there is some modern, although too dark and neo-Gothic for my taste, art structure, decorating the main square. At least, there is some freshness coming from the running fountain.

Some other places, are simply lovely, that feeling that one may only experience during the short-lived German summers. The modest reds of the roses is beautifying even the most mundane white wall. This is how I want to remember most of the places from October onwards.

As I am a Danube lover, Leipheim offered me also a pristine view of the old European river. Danube played a big role in the industrial development of the place, as situated on the way between Ulm - to be visited soon - and Augsburg. The construction of the bridge over the Danube and the highway brought Leipheim out of isolation.

While coming back and forth from my travels, I always tried to took some minutes to visit the river, feeling grateful to be here and celebrate my travels. We may be small and mortal compared to the Danube, but at least we are here to tell our travel stories. Again and again.

For more travel stories, follow my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ilanatravels

A Lovely Trip to the Linderhof Castle

Since visiting the most famous South Germany's castles Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein two years ago I've promised myself to come back to see the rest of the architecture and cultural endeavours associated with the mysterious Ludwig II. The opportunity arose a couple of weeks ago when I went to Munich for a full day of work and decided to book some time for a visit to one of the less known but equally beautiful: Linderhof Castle.

If you want to go there using public transportation from Munich, you need a bit of patience and some available time. From Munich train station, with the Bayern Ticket (22 EUR) you take the regional train until Oberammergau. From the stop in the front of the train station, using the same ticket, the bus 9622 that in around 30 minutes will leave you in the front of the entrance to Lindenhof Castle. 

The trip in itself is worth taking, the small road path crossing impressive forest capped mountains with colourful houses spread as lively dots on the light green tapestry. 

Once buying my ticket and getting ready for the tour of the castle - as in the case of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau, the tour of the interior is possible only under guidance - the surrounding landscape left no space for thoughts about future as everything was only about now and then. The first stop on the slopped paths was the Moroccan house, a small little house with a fassade decorated with Oriental motives and architectural add-ons.

Ludwig the IIth was fascinated by the world of the 'Orient' and its esoteric mysteries and the Moroccan House was actually added to the precincts only later. Initially, it was part of the World Expo in Paris in 1878, and was transferred here from a small village near the Austrian border where it was initially brought back from the Exhibition. 

Both the interior and the exterior of the House were renovated a couple of years ago. The interior view is available only through a glass in order to protect the fine decorations, but the beauty can be easily caught from the other side of the transparent thick walls.

The man-made beauty joins the outstanding natural landscape of the Ammergauer Alps.

In the middle of all this, the incredible gardens of Linderhof Castle offers another example of fine architecture and out-of-time inspiration. Initially, Ludwig II intended to make Linderhof, a former agricultural and hunting estate of his father, King Maximilian the IInd of Bavaria, into a copy of Versailles, to which to attach a Byzantine Palace. However, given the slopped natural environment, such a plan was not possible and the ideas used and at a great extent implemented in the case of the Chimsee Palace (on my list too).

The final works of Court Garden Director Carl von Effner suits very well the natural landscape, embelishing the natural beauty with discrete handmade jewels. The fountain in the middle of the biggest lake springs every couple of minutes requiring the full attention of the visitors - not as many as in the case of the other Bavarian castles, but this can be also due to our visit in the middle of the week - and their mobile devices. Aware probably of the interest of this location for the Instagram and social media users in general, the administration of the castle offers free WLAN on the property.

The castle as such, where we are offering an dynamic 25-minute tour, is relatively small but displays the best of the German rococo. From the tapestry chamber to the dining and audience rooms, the choice of style was in vivid colours, silky walls and golden framen mirrors and matched colourful Meissen porcelain, whose manufacture I had the chance to visit a couple of years ago. Photos inside the castle are possible only with special permission.

Out of the many Bavarian castles associated with the life and imagination of Ludwig II, Linderhof was the only one where he lived and saw completed during his short life.

Slowly, we are touring the manicured gardens and alleys, recreating a French spirit in the middle of the Bavarian natural ambiance. The rich beauty of the flowers makes me think that although snow capped mountains are always a Romantic view, summer when nature is in full bloom is the best time to visit this palace.

The green walls create pavillions and intimate corners where you are completely alone. Some corners look like fragments of fairy tales, especially when it involves some golden figures places in the middle of fountains.

From the small windows of the palace, a feeling of harmony, peace and order is displayed to the viewer.

The rich vegetation is hiding corners and small gardens where the human work is less intrusive, yet creating its own footprints.

More renovations are under way and the famous Grotto was also closed to the visitors during our visit, but from the top of the gardens pavillion, the overview of the elaborated gardens guarding the stairs is hearthbreaking. Although Ludwig II was rather a person of extremes and extravagant behaviors, the work of adapting his wishes completed by the constructors, gardeners and architects created a world of balance and equilibrium with a beauty which cannot be diminished by the passing of time.

Waiting to make our way back to Munich, our final stop involved some local threat: the famous treat within the former Habsburg empire, Kaiserschmarrn. A shredded pancake, whose name in the local Austrian and Bavarian dialects can be also translated as mishmash, it is made of flour, eggs, milk, sugar, salt and raisins and served with the apple sauce (Apfelmus).

As someone who spent at least one month the year as a child exploring various Alps and mountains all over Europe, the view of this part of Bavaria is just an encouragement that I should come back soon for more. I may love castles a lot, but hiking in the mountains is even more entincing and Garmisch- Partenkirchen calls loudly my name.

Until then, time to discover more from Munich and another praised destination in the area. To be continued...

For more travel stories, follow my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ilanatravels

Hotel and Restaurant Review: Der Blauer Bock, Munich

I don't visit the South of Germany very often, but every time I do I try to make a short visit to Munich too. This time, I am going only to Munich, on the occasion of Internet World Fair and I am more than pleased to discover new things in the city. The adventure starts with my stay at the Blauer Bock, that celebrates this year 200 years of tradition in the hosting industry, that offered me a complimentary stay. The glorious past of the 400-year old building are discretely reminded to the visitor, through the documents hanging on the walls of the lobby leading to my room.

The premium double room I was offered has a view on the Munich foodie paradise, Viktualenmark that I will visit late in the afternoon. The hotel is centrally situated, very close to the new synagogue and around 15 minutes by foot from the historical city hall. The room is simply decorated, in white-beige colours. Although the furniture doesn't include a big desk where I can set my own working space, the beige leather chairs are comfy enough for doing a little bit of work before doing my program in the city.

The room is provided with a safe and a closet and a relatively big lobby where bigger luggage can be stored.

A bottle of Adelholzener mineral water, produced in the Bavarian Alps, and a small 'kugel' cake is waiting for me. The room doesn't have mini bar but various beverages can be purchased from the reception desk. The wifi is free and 2 iPads can be rented for free. The restroom is small, provided with various facilities. You can also buy your own shaving or sewing set at the reception.

Black-and-white paintings of iconic corners of Munich inspire the visitor to start the journey through the city as soon as possible.

The centrality of the location doesn't bring the usual noise associated with high traffic and after a long day of travel, I can easily sleep a bit later in the morning, at an hour when usually most of the active inhabitants are ready to head for their offices. But I don't hear anything.

At the time of my visit, part of the hotel was going through another restoration process that might be ready in the next weeks. The hundred years of history are not always easy to accommodate to the high-standards of hotellerie of the 21st century, but creativity can always bring something new and interesting. The elevators are by far one of the most modernist part of the building, with neon lights changing regularly.

In the evening, I am inviting to taste the gourmet menu, prepared by the famous local chef Hans-Jörg Bachmeier, who also authored many cooking books. The seasonal menu is changed almost every two weeks and very often the chef himself chose the ingredients from the markets nearby. The restaurant is very different from the rest of the hotel, as it has a different style and a very intimate ambiance.

The service goes very fast, in English and German. The restaurant has regular customers not only among the hotel residents, but also those working nearby that prefer to have a healthy and special meal during the lunch break. We are in Munich, where people are more careful about style and high-end taste, especially in food.

Till my first meal is brought, I am tempted with some local fresh breads with butter, a very delicious and crispy introduction to the rest of the foodie evening.

Without acknowledging, I am ready to begin real gourmet adventure, that starts with goat's cheese with various sort of fresh red beets and lemon foam. It is served cold and achieved a mysterious alchemy, when all the individual tastes are melted together to create an unexpected tasty surprise. I wish I can eat only this for the rest of my lunches!

But it seems that moderation is the keyword of the menu: you should taste enough for both your hunger and gourmet needs, but no more. After a short break, a delicious turbot consommé with veggies is brought. It is hot, maybe a bit too salty for my taste, but good enough to make me curious about what will be next.

For the main course, I opted for a dorade with sauce bouillabaisse. Every bit is as seasoned as it should be, nothing more nothing less. From time to time, I take a break to scribble my impressions, enjoying the view: modern paintings on the walls, nice and pleasant colours of the furniture and chairs comfy enough to spend some good hours here.

Crème brulée was not on my menu for a long time, but it seems that since this January, I am trying to catch up and I am tasting as many recipes as possible. Mine was a relatively unusual combination for me: with apple sorbet that balances the sweetness of the cream. My initial scepticism was battled by the exquisite results I experience. At the end of the menu, I have the good feeling of not feeling hungry any more but not necessarily 'full' either. This is how one should feel after a really good eating.

A good night after a lot of walking and work the day before, enjoying the comfy mattresses of my room continued with a special breakfast. Probably one of the best in a long time, as it serves a carefully selected menu: many veggies and fresh fruits, a selection of cheeses, breads and pastries and coffees. The veggies are regional products bought directly from the markets nearby, as in the case of the restaurant menu.

While reading the latest news from the local newspapers offered I am ready for my fully schedule.

At the hotel reception, there are a lot of branded souvenirs that can be bought, but also some of the cooking books authored by the chef Hans Jörg Bachmeier.

Late in the afternoon, I am going to a full tour of the location, learning more about the history and the design concept. The 3-star hotel has 69 rooms of different categories, all of them non-smoking. Most of the rooms suit the requirements of families, and during the summer special family prices are offered. Some of the rooms even allow the children to have their own room. In most cases, pets are also allowed. The summer and the month of October are the usually the busiest one, with most visitors coming from Germany, Austria or Switzerland, but also the US.

The hotel has 5 rooms with shared shower and restrooms, offered at 57 EUR/night, including breakfast. All rooms have old keys, keeping the flavour of the old inn days.

The dimensions of the room vary from 25 to 85 sqm. There are two main design colour choices: the white-beige light and the cherry. The last one is by far, one of my favourite, with the rooms keeping a certain home ambiance.

The cherry rooms also have a little gidéon that can be easily used as a working office, and a big closet that can accommodate longer stays.

The name of the hotel can be translated in English as 'The blue buck'. In the old times not everyone was able to read, a certain symbol associated with a inn was enough to single out the destination in the local memory of the inhabitants. The image of the 'blue bock' still can be found in some rooms and at the entrance reminds the old history. Small details from the old building are still kept and creates a historical branding of the location.

Munich is a very busy city and is not easy to find a good parking place, especially if you are visiting. The hotel offers 17 parking places to the guests. For those 'eco' oriented, bikes are available for 9 Eur/day.

Another historical detail of the location: the old parquet in the lobby, well preserved.

At the reception, most of the furniture and decorations are from the old times. This table, for instance, has the white-and-blue specific colours of Bavaria.

For the late busy evenings, there is also the bar, with a fine selection of wines and cocktails.

As I am ready to leave for returning to Berlin, I am happy to be offered a new and interesting side of Munich, and some local history and a good meal contributed significantly to this new experience. Maybe it is about time to visit more often this part of Germany.

Disclaimer: I was offered a Premium Double room and a gourmet menu on complimentary basis at the hotel, but the opinions are, as usual, my own.

For more insights about Der Blauer Bock Hotel and Restaurant, have a look at the dedicated Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/hotel-and-restaurant-blauer-bock-munich/