Flaneur in Munich

I've been several times to Munich, for different reasons. This time, I was back in Bavaria for attending the Internet World Fair, but also for checking the latest galleries and interesting places. After seven hours of driving from the capital city, the main negative comparison used by the Bavarians for outlining their special identity, I make my way to the city, via Karlsplatz, trying to find my hotel Der Blauer Bock, where I am offered a complimentary one-night accommodation.

 

The weather is gorgeous and I am happy to be back in Marienplatz, one of the most important meeting point in town and the no.1 attraction of tourists from all over the world.

I am also happy to see again the new synagogue, 'Ohel Jacob' ('Tent of Jacob'), an interesting construction inaugurated in 2006.

After a short check of my hotel, I am ready to spend the rest of the day exploring Munich. I start with Schrannenhalle, on the other side of the street, where I can find almost everything I dream about in terms of quality cheese, wines, spices and fresh fruits.

In the immediate neighborhoud, another foodie temptation: Viktualienmarkt, with fresh products and another fine selection of French cheese, wines and chocolate. The sunny weather sent the reunion call to the beer lovers that took their places on the long benches in the front of a fresh cold big glass of beer. Vendors from all over the world are ready to tell their stories to anyone interested to heard about how, for instance, they arrived in Munich from Kosovo.

As for me, I am curious to explore for the next hour the Toys museum/Spielzeugmuseum, in the tower close to Marienplatz, presenting different toys and games from different generations of children.

Back to Marienplatz, I make a short tour of the iconic city hall. Guided tour are periodically organized, but this time, I only want to walk by. Close to one of the entrances, I stop for a while to a 17th century old bookstore, Lentner. 

From there on, I slowly walk, with elegant shops on both sides of the street and chic people. One of my persistent memories about Munich is about a lot of music coming up from every corner. Last time, Odeon Square was set up for an open air opera show. This time, there were only noisy teenagers hanging around after school.

Bavaria is also associated with the car industry, and big BMW and Mercedes Benz shops are showing off the industrial local power. Not ready to buy a German car, I rather prefer to walk along the English garden, that reminds me a bit of Tuilleries. The benches are full of people enjoying the spring, chatting about life, relationships, happy news or simply knitting or solving a complicated Sudoku problem. The fresh wind can definitely help towards a solution.

The trompe d'oeil of Munich Residence, used as headquarters by dukes, electors and kings of Bavaria between 1508-1918 is about to close the exhibition spaces. As it's getting darker and a bit colder, I focus to visit more galleries and design shops: Ralph Taut combines modern and vintage interior design style; the Kunst Salon Frank-Schenk about to celebrate 100 years, presenting among others, a beautiful Renoir; the colourful cashmere shawls from Surjit and Singh; the modern Gallery Turnius, displaying besides a huge Donald Duck, also works by Gerhard Richter and Roy Lichtenstein; or the fancy clothes by Fietze K.

 

Ready to taste the exquisite menu waiting for me at my hotel, I limit my gourmet explorations to only some tasting at Maelu: a couple of beautiful and equally tasty macarons (rose, passion fruit, chocolate and mango, cinnamon) and a cappuccino made of coffee Vergnano, a first class coffee produced in Europe since 1882.

 

The new day starts with a long stay at the World Internet Messe, where I arrive with a blue-and-white subway. This colour combination is representative for Bavaria, especially for Munich. It goes fast, with special trains scheduled especially on the occasion of the fair.

The exhibition area is situated in an ambiance redesigned in modern style, with spectacular art works raising up from the middle of the water. Swans and wild ducks were adding more motion to the modernist landscape. 

Once the business part of my day is over, I am happy to be back in town, for more discoveries, of very diverse kind: the Antiquity shops around the city hall area, the Persepolis carpet gallery, classical prints from Gallery Gronert, the wood works by Christoph Leuner at Kunst-Handwerk. Last but not least, some gorgeous pairs of shoes made of chocolate, at Samma-Samma. 

Slowly but firmly, I am back again in Viktualienmarkt, for more views of local products or just walking without a clear aim. 

Trying to follow my plan of discovering new galleries, I've found Filser Graef Gallery, with interesting young designers works and Gallery Hegemann, at the time running an exhibition of wood and pop art.

When I look around, there is an overwhelming presence of traditional costumes, many of them currently used as part of the daily outfits of many middle-class citizens of Munich. There is a certain fascination with old times that I should think more about.

I've been to Thai restaurant Yum 2 Stay during my last trip, and I don't see any reason why I should not have another delicious Pad Thai here again. The service is awesomely fast, the food good and I enjoy my meal outdoors, surrounded by young people talking about e-commerce and marketing and human resources. Not bad to bee in Munich!

Time to pack and say 'good bye' to Bavaria for now. But South of Germany should appear more often on my travel agenda in the next month. 

For more visual insights about Munich, have a look at my dedicated Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/munich/

Hotel and Restaurant Review: Der Blauer Bock, Munich

I don't visit the South of Germany very often, but every time I do I try to make a short visit to Munich too. This time, I am going only to Munich, on the occasion of Internet World Fair and I am more than pleased to discover new things in the city. The adventure starts with my stay at the Blauer Bock, that celebrates this year 200 years of tradition in the hosting industry, that offered me a complimentary stay. The glorious past of the 400-year old building are discretely reminded to the visitor, through the documents hanging on the walls of the lobby leading to my room.

The premium double room I was offered has a view on the Munich foodie paradise, Viktualenmark that I will visit late in the afternoon. The hotel is centrally situated, very close to the new synagogue and around 15 minutes by foot from the historical city hall. The room is simply decorated, in white-beige colours. Although the furniture doesn't include a big desk where I can set my own working space, the beige leather chairs are comfy enough for doing a little bit of work before doing my program in the city.

The room is provided with a safe and a closet and a relatively big lobby where bigger luggage can be stored.

A bottle of Adelholzener mineral water, produced in the Bavarian Alps, and a small 'kugel' cake is waiting for me. The room doesn't have mini bar but various beverages can be purchased from the reception desk. The wifi is free and 2 iPads can be rented for free. The restroom is small, provided with various facilities. You can also buy your own shaving or sewing set at the reception.

Black-and-white paintings of iconic corners of Munich inspire the visitor to start the journey through the city as soon as possible.

The centrality of the location doesn't bring the usual noise associated with high traffic and after a long day of travel, I can easily sleep a bit later in the morning, at an hour when usually most of the active inhabitants are ready to head for their offices. But I don't hear anything.

At the time of my visit, part of the hotel was going through another restoration process that might be ready in the next weeks. The hundred years of history are not always easy to accommodate to the high-standards of hotellerie of the 21st century, but creativity can always bring something new and interesting. The elevators are by far one of the most modernist part of the building, with neon lights changing regularly.

In the evening, I am inviting to taste the gourmet menu, prepared by the famous local chef Hans-Jörg Bachmeier, who also authored many cooking books. The seasonal menu is changed almost every two weeks and very often the chef himself chose the ingredients from the markets nearby. The restaurant is very different from the rest of the hotel, as it has a different style and a very intimate ambiance.

The service goes very fast, in English and German. The restaurant has regular customers not only among the hotel residents, but also those working nearby that prefer to have a healthy and special meal during the lunch break. We are in Munich, where people are more careful about style and high-end taste, especially in food.

Till my first meal is brought, I am tempted with some local fresh breads with butter, a very delicious and crispy introduction to the rest of the foodie evening.

Without acknowledging, I am ready to begin real gourmet adventure, that starts with goat's cheese with various sort of fresh red beets and lemon foam. It is served cold and achieved a mysterious alchemy, when all the individual tastes are melted together to create an unexpected tasty surprise. I wish I can eat only this for the rest of my lunches!

But it seems that moderation is the keyword of the menu: you should taste enough for both your hunger and gourmet needs, but no more. After a short break, a delicious turbot consommé with veggies is brought. It is hot, maybe a bit too salty for my taste, but good enough to make me curious about what will be next.

For the main course, I opted for a dorade with sauce bouillabaisse. Every bit is as seasoned as it should be, nothing more nothing less. From time to time, I take a break to scribble my impressions, enjoying the view: modern paintings on the walls, nice and pleasant colours of the furniture and chairs comfy enough to spend some good hours here.

Crème brulée was not on my menu for a long time, but it seems that since this January, I am trying to catch up and I am tasting as many recipes as possible. Mine was a relatively unusual combination for me: with apple sorbet that balances the sweetness of the cream. My initial scepticism was battled by the exquisite results I experience. At the end of the menu, I have the good feeling of not feeling hungry any more but not necessarily 'full' either. This is how one should feel after a really good eating.

A good night after a lot of walking and work the day before, enjoying the comfy mattresses of my room continued with a special breakfast. Probably one of the best in a long time, as it serves a carefully selected menu: many veggies and fresh fruits, a selection of cheeses, breads and pastries and coffees. The veggies are regional products bought directly from the markets nearby, as in the case of the restaurant menu.

While reading the latest news from the local newspapers offered I am ready for my fully schedule.

At the hotel reception, there are a lot of branded souvenirs that can be bought, but also some of the cooking books authored by the chef Hans Jörg Bachmeier.

Late in the afternoon, I am going to a full tour of the location, learning more about the history and the design concept. The 3-star hotel has 69 rooms of different categories, all of them non-smoking. Most of the rooms suit the requirements of families, and during the summer special family prices are offered. Some of the rooms even allow the children to have their own room. In most cases, pets are also allowed. The summer and the month of October are the usually the busiest one, with most visitors coming from Germany, Austria or Switzerland, but also the US.

The hotel has 5 rooms with shared shower and restrooms, offered at 57 EUR/night, including breakfast. All rooms have old keys, keeping the flavour of the old inn days.

The dimensions of the room vary from 25 to 85 sqm. There are two main design colour choices: the white-beige light and the cherry. The last one is by far, one of my favourite, with the rooms keeping a certain home ambiance.

The cherry rooms also have a little gidéon that can be easily used as a working office, and a big closet that can accommodate longer stays.

The name of the hotel can be translated in English as 'The blue buck'. In the old times not everyone was able to read, a certain symbol associated with a inn was enough to single out the destination in the local memory of the inhabitants. The image of the 'blue bock' still can be found in some rooms and at the entrance reminds the old history. Small details from the old building are still kept and creates a historical branding of the location.

Munich is a very busy city and is not easy to find a good parking place, especially if you are visiting. The hotel offers 17 parking places to the guests. For those 'eco' oriented, bikes are available for 9 Eur/day.

Another historical detail of the location: the old parquet in the lobby, well preserved.

At the reception, most of the furniture and decorations are from the old times. This table, for instance, has the white-and-blue specific colours of Bavaria.

For the late busy evenings, there is also the bar, with a fine selection of wines and cocktails.

As I am ready to leave for returning to Berlin, I am happy to be offered a new and interesting side of Munich, and some local history and a good meal contributed significantly to this new experience. Maybe it is about time to visit more often this part of Germany.

Disclaimer: I was offered a Premium Double room and a gourmet menu on complimentary basis at the hotel, but the opinions are, as usual, my own.

For more insights about Der Blauer Bock Hotel and Restaurant, have a look at the dedicated Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/hotel-and-restaurant-blauer-bock-munich/

A Lovely Trip to the Linderhof Castle

Since visiting the most famous South Germany's castles Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein two years ago I've promised myself to come back to see the rest of the architecture and cultural endeavours associated with the mysterious Ludwig II. The opportunity arose a couple of weeks ago when I went to Munich for a full day of work and decided to book some time for a visit to one of the less known but equally beautiful: Linderhof Castle.

If you want to go there using public transportation from Munich, you need a bit of patience and some available time. From Munich train station, with the Bayern Ticket (22 EUR) you take the regional train until Oberammergau. From the stop in the front of the train station, using the same ticket, the bus 9622 that in around 30 minutes will leave you in the front of the entrance to Lindenhof Castle. 

The trip in itself is worth taking, the small road path crossing impressive forest capped mountains with colourful houses spread as lively dots on the light green tapestry. 

Once buying my ticket and getting ready for the tour of the castle - as in the case of Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau, the tour of the interior is possible only under guidance - the surrounding landscape left no space for thoughts about future as everything was only about now and then. The first stop on the slopped paths was the Moroccan house, a small little house with a fassade decorated with Oriental motives and architectural add-ons.

Ludwig the IIth was fascinated by the world of the 'Orient' and its esoteric mysteries and the Moroccan House was actually added to the precincts only later. Initially, it was part of the World Expo in Paris in 1878, and was transferred here from a small village near the Austrian border where it was initially brought back from the Exhibition. 

Both the interior and the exterior of the House were renovated a couple of years ago. The interior view is available only through a glass in order to protect the fine decorations, but the beauty can be easily caught from the other side of the transparent thick walls.

The man-made beauty joins the outstanding natural landscape of the Ammergauer Alps.

In the middle of all this, the incredible gardens of Linderhof Castle offers another example of fine architecture and out-of-time inspiration. Initially, Ludwig II intended to make Linderhof, a former agricultural and hunting estate of his father, King Maximilian the IInd of Bavaria, into a copy of Versailles, to which to attach a Byzantine Palace. However, given the slopped natural environment, such a plan was not possible and the ideas used and at a great extent implemented in the case of the Chimsee Palace (on my list too).

The final works of Court Garden Director Carl von Effner suits very well the natural landscape, embelishing the natural beauty with discrete handmade jewels. The fountain in the middle of the biggest lake springs every couple of minutes requiring the full attention of the visitors - not as many as in the case of the other Bavarian castles, but this can be also due to our visit in the middle of the week - and their mobile devices. Aware probably of the interest of this location for the Instagram and social media users in general, the administration of the castle offers free WLAN on the property.

The castle as such, where we are offering an dynamic 25-minute tour, is relatively small but displays the best of the German rococo. From the tapestry chamber to the dining and audience rooms, the choice of style was in vivid colours, silky walls and golden framen mirrors and matched colourful Meissen porcelain, whose manufacture I had the chance to visit a couple of years ago. Photos inside the castle are possible only with special permission.

Out of the many Bavarian castles associated with the life and imagination of Ludwig II, Linderhof was the only one where he lived and saw completed during his short life.

Slowly, we are touring the manicured gardens and alleys, recreating a French spirit in the middle of the Bavarian natural ambiance. The rich beauty of the flowers makes me think that although snow capped mountains are always a Romantic view, summer when nature is in full bloom is the best time to visit this palace.

The green walls create pavillions and intimate corners where you are completely alone. Some corners look like fragments of fairy tales, especially when it involves some golden figures places in the middle of fountains.

From the small windows of the palace, a feeling of harmony, peace and order is displayed to the viewer.

The rich vegetation is hiding corners and small gardens where the human work is less intrusive, yet creating its own footprints.

More renovations are under way and the famous Grotto was also closed to the visitors during our visit, but from the top of the gardens pavillion, the overview of the elaborated gardens guarding the stairs is hearthbreaking. Although Ludwig II was rather a person of extremes and extravagant behaviors, the work of adapting his wishes completed by the constructors, gardeners and architects created a world of balance and equilibrium with a beauty which cannot be diminished by the passing of time.

Waiting to make our way back to Munich, our final stop involved some local threat: the famous treat within the former Habsburg empire, Kaiserschmarrn. A shredded pancake, whose name in the local Austrian and Bavarian dialects can be also translated as mishmash, it is made of flour, eggs, milk, sugar, salt and raisins and served with the apple sauce (Apfelmus).

As someone who spent at least one month the year as a child exploring various Alps and mountains all over Europe, the view of this part of Bavaria is just an encouragement that I should come back soon for more. I may love castles a lot, but hiking in the mountains is even more entincing and Garmisch- Partenkirchen calls loudly my name.

Until then, time to discover more from Munich and another praised destination in the area. To be continued...

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