How to Spend a Lovely Day in the Colourful Stade

As a regular visitor to Hamburg, I am always looking for the local recommendations for one-day trips. After I've been to Lüneburg a couple of years ago - and really enjoyed it - this time I finally have the chance to make the one-hour trip with S-Bahn to the colourful city of Stade.

It is a lovely sunny Indian summer day, and like in Hamburg, everyone is out enjoying, everyone's its own way. And abilities. Paddling is one of it, but if you are into romantic tours, you can even have your own gondola for a water tour. I am skipping those experiences for this time though.

I've been told a lot by my friends about the classical red-bricked buildings and Hanseatic style of Stade, but during my first minutes here I am having a look at the street art instead, done on a so-called 'legal wall' - the only urban space where the street artists are allowed to display their art skills. It looks moderately fine.  

The day is busy not only on the waters, but also outdoors. It's a city festival taking place and some of the old buildings are obstructed by colourful panels offering entertainment for children.

With so many events taking place, the central area of Pferdemarkt is crowded with stalls offering various local treats and entertainment. However, the side streets like Poststraße are so quiet that you can hear your steps on the cobblestone. The predominant colour of the buildings is red, and the bricks were aimed to diminish the risk of fire that consumed parts of the city more than once. 

The late Renaissance entry of the City Hall on Hökerstraße is a representative construction for Stade. It was built in the second half of the 17th century, on the ruins of the previous 13th century building, and rather looks like a local middle class palace than an administrative building.

As it is weekend, I cannot visit the interior, with its wooden staircases and the stained glass windows. Maybe a next time.

Meanwhile, I have plenty of time to stroll the narrow streets with the shops and small restaurants hosted at the ground level of half-timbered houses. There are plenty of local products and vintage stores and some small art galleries too. At Stader FachMarkt on Große Schmiedestraße I chat shortly with the owners about the selection of local products: among others, apple curry, cider and honey. Apple is a staple in the area of Alte Land, surrounding Stade, which are the main ingredients not only of various types of local cakes and jams, but also of brandies or even soups. On my to-eat list for a next visit. 

But before I am finding a place to eat - get ready with cash, as I tried at least seven places and cards were always forbidden fruits - I am enjoying a bit more the sun blessings. Finding a free place on Fishmarkt is mission impossible so I prefer to keep exploring more side streets.

And I am hardly disappointed, as I have always a weakness for colourful doors.

On the other side of the old city, the clean geometry of the modern buildings guarded by elegant boats is reflected into the water.

Although I am a big lover of everything modern architecture, this time I am more into discovering the old spirit of this Hanseatic little town, with its tradesmen houses.

And some hidden symbols displayed at the entrances, whose meaning I am too much in a hurry to decipher. Looks like a good beginning of a novel in Dan Brown' style.

Personally, I am more keen to decipher the beautiful combination of seasonal vegetables in my lasagna I am treating myself at Cafe im Goebenhaus, considered among Germany's best eateries. My order, a choice from a handwritten menu, is taken fast, and brought even faster, the meal is well balanced and genuinely tasty and the lemonade is one of the best I've had in Germany - which means still far from my standards. 

But Stade has more than nice foodie places and colourful doors. There is also a museum to see, Schwedenspeiche, a former warehouse used by the Swedish Army during the 30 years war in the 17th century. Swedish nostalgics can also have a Swedish meal at the Saltkran, a pretty eatery in the old city area.

Still, with the warm season at the very deadly end, I prefer to stay as much as possible outdoors, enjoying the views of just another pair of colourful doors...

...or some beautiful Baroque-style light orange building.

When the intensive noise of the bells announces me it is a quarter before...my train is leaving the station, I feel that I would love to spend more time here. I wanted so long to meet Stade and was happy for the encounter. From now on, I know where I can go when I am spending just another long weekend in my lovely Hamburg.

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A Musical Sunday Summer at Chorin Abbey

Less than one hour away from Berlin, there is a place that resonates a lot with classical music lovers in the capital city and Brandenburg: Chorin Abbey. This former Cistercian monastery that underwent secularisation in the 16th century is a noteworthy meeting point for all those in love with a good classical concert. 

Between 22nd of June and 25 of August, here are taking place every Sunday, in the afternoon, around 2 hours of quality music. Some are listening from a comfy place inside the monastery concert hall, some prefer it outdoors, on their blanket while having a family picnic. 

A tradition for over 50 years, I made it there only the last week. As usual, my one-day trip involved more than music, and only opened the eyes and the appetite for at least another adventure to come in the next weeks.

Reaching Chorin is relatively easy and all you need is a 13 Euro ticket, plus a short commuting from Bernau (b.Berlin). For the first time in a long time, I was welcomed by a train station which looked a bit different than the usual derelict buildings I've been used to in the last trips. Nearby, a bike parking place, as the area is a favorite destination for cyclists from around the area. 

Outdoor activities are encouraged by the pristine nature surrounding Chorin. I was relatively familiar with it when I went to visit the Schorfheide natural reserve a couple of years ago. The abundance of green adds on to the sense of calm that breathes the streets. Pretty houses hiding behind colourful flowers with hardly a car on the road, the perfect rural retreat not too far away from the urban life.

For the guests of the classical concerts, there are buses taking them for free from the train station, with return hour after the concerts are over. Otherwise, one can slowly walk the little bit over 2 km. walk to the Abbey. It is an easy ride, and all you need is comfy shoes and the moderate preparation.

We arrived at the abbey from the backyard, meandering mysterious doors and hiding places. As it is less than 30 minutes before the concert start, there are plenty of people taking the chance of some fresh breathes of air, but there are still enough remote areas where you can hardly meet anyone.

The ruins are taken over by the nature and the human intervention was only for allowing the visitors an easier ride, by setting up stone stairs and bridges.

Before of after the concert, a round walk around the Amtssee is a mind-soothing experience. It takes around 2 hours of slow walking and it is worth the experience of pure enjoyment of moderate wilderness.

The red-brick building, a trademark of the Cistercian Gothic architecture, the monastic order the abbey belonged to, are making an appearance behind the lush vegetation, and now I know that it is time to head back to the concert area.

There are so many temptations around, including a very old restaurant and some beer gardens, but I promise myself to be back in a couple of weeks for a full tasting of Chorin, plus an overview of the many art galleries open in the area.

But people are hurrying up for the music event and I am following the crowds. The tickets for the summer concerts can be purchased other online, or on the spot. The number of places indoors is limited, but for outdoors - our choice, which costed 8 euro - you can have it any time. 

The sound is as good as inside, and unless there is some threat of rain, you can fully enjoy the experience. At the entrance, there are many food stalls with various treats - a bit overpriced, but this is the price you pay for some good bio goodness, it seems - so even if you did not bring a heavy basket with you, you can have some small guilty pleasures during the concerts.

I often asked myself how in Germany it is possible that even though there is a massive amount of people everyone is so quiet. Like a mass of voiceless bodies are moving slowly in a perfect pace, but without the need to utter any sound.

Indoors, everyone took its place and are waiting for the performance. The guest orchestra this time is from the neighbouring Polish Szczecin, and it plays a classical mix which includes also Mozart. Since its creation, the abbey was an important player in the relationship with the neighbouring Slavic territories and nowadays, several German-Polish projects are developped in the area, many of them focused on cultural dialogue.

Although it was abandonned for centuries - following the conversion to Protestantism of the rulers of Brandenburg, in the first half of the 16th century - the massive Gothic architecture, one of the most important in Brandenburg, is still impressive visually and architecturally.

The efforts to save the old monastery, which among others, was used also as a livestock farm, were initiated by the famous architect Schinkel, in the 19th century, who convinced the Prussian kings that those ruins are worth the preservation not only for cultural, but also for nascent national reasons. 

The Cistercian order was created in 1088, originating from Cîteaux, near Dijon, preaches values such as austerity and self-sufficiency, elements that were at a large extent resonating with the nascent national identity the Prussians themselves were trying to build. Therefore, the appeal of Schinkel  for an investment in saving the ruins after a visit here, called home more than he probably imagined.

The first part of the concert is filling the air with an exquisite energy. The music takes over everything, and once listening, you hardly notice anything, but the united sound of the fast instruments. It is an exemple how music and culture in general, can embelish and enoble souls, wild nature and even weather. The rain forecast for the afternoon are apparently on hold for now.

During the short break, it is about time to visit the rest of the abbey and have a look at the various exhibitions tracing the long history of the building and the monastic order in general. The details of the architecture are fascinating though and are telling their own history with a loud voice which does not need too much cultural or historical background.

There is a certain ambiance that was probably part of a larger mentality continuum at the time, aimed at a specific representation and projection of the religious feeling. Indeed, the order was austere and less interested in an extrovert manifestation of the belief, but the small details of the construction and the permanent dialogue between light and darkness was there for more than an aesthetic reason. 

The small details are part of the history and I am enjoying to take picture of those little elements that beautify the place.

For the Romantic mindset of the 19th century, ruins were an important element of a way of being and seeing the world as a place of loss and permanent reminder of human fragility and short stay on this earth. Some places like castles were left as a ruin on purpose, as in the case of the Heidelberg castle. Surrounded by the untainted green grass, it looks for me as a huge cemetery, where history is burried.

Cistercian monks were hard workers and they had relevant contributions not only to the field of architecture, but also in diverse domains such as agriculture and metallurgy. In the Middle Ages everything was connected to religious activity, therefore, the monasteries were both centers of learning with access to knowledge which further allowed the development of technique and science that at least for a couple of centuries mored it remained wrapped in the covers of religion, until secularisation reclaimed its own mental space.

Once the concert is over, I take over the hiking path for bringing the cultural insights into the nature. What can be better than a wondering through the nature with a mind full of intellectual ideas and cultural concepts? It's the perfect environment for a discussion in two or just for solitary random thoughts. The surroundings are not disappointing.

Like in life, the path takes to ups and downs, easier and less easier turns, where you need more focus and self-restrain.

The houses are looking are hiding in a very discrete way, with their presence noticed only if you want to direct your eyes at an upper level.

Everything looks remote and I am enjoying the post-concert hike more than I thought. I was expecting just a relaxing walk through the forest without too many intellectual challenges. It seems that the historical overview of the place plus the architectural impressions and the classical concert brought enough food for thought that will stay with me for more than a couple of hours. Maybe for days. Maybe for weeks.

The only question is now: when I will return to Chorin to reveal even more interesting corners both for the curious mind and the nature lover soul?

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A Lovely Guide of a Busy Day in Wismar

I planned my trip to Wismar for ever. At least 3 times the last year I was 24 hours before the scheduled adventure and something out of my control happened and had to put it on hold until the next time. And then the winter arrived and the idea of spending one full day outdoors at many degrees below minus was not a real temptation, even for a traveller like me.

This until two weeks ago, when I just ignored any other work and personal calls, bought a 36.70 Euro Ostsee ticket and arrived after a 3-hour trip from Berlin to Wismar. From the train station, I only had to follow the tourist directions and made my way slowly to the center of the city, direction Altstadt - old city.

Wismar was part of the Hanseatic league, an organisation covering Northern Europe made of merchant community that decided to protect together their mutual trade interests. Founded in the Middle Ages (between 13th and 15th century), the member cities developped independently from the economic point of view. The traces of their wealth and free spirit are still visible nowadays. 

My first acquintance with the city starts on Poehlstraße, where a mixture of red bricked houses and curvaceous roofs reminds me of Lüneburg.

Summer adds its personal note of charm as heavy roses bushes are decorating the entrances into relatively more modern buildings.

A couple of meters away, a big group of French-speaking tourists are gathering to take pictures at the Schweinsbrücke - Pig's bridge - a 19th century bridge over the river Grube.

The architecture of the houses, at a relatively non-eventful time of the day and the week, reveals in its full charm and beauty. On ABC Straße, for instance, many of those houses host at the ground level local art galleries - like the Baltic Soul Gallery - and antiques stores

There is more to admire on Lübsche Straße, where the houses are requesting for more space, as probably the inhabitants themselves, perhaps local merchants, were a social level upper. 

Lacking proper knowledge about the history of the local architecture, I am just using my eyes to work on patterns and styles.  

Amtsgericht building - the district court - displays a relatively controlled geometry, and has a generous backyard that can be visited for free.

The front entrance though, offers a joyous - and sensual too - aproach to life, with probably some beginning of the times Biblical references, when people cared way too much about a fully dressed dress code. 

Rathaus - the city hall - looks relatively modest size-wise, compared to the usual size of such institutions in Germany, a kind of small palace surrounded by same-size 2-storey buildings with restaurants of all sorts. 

Near the entrance to the city hall, a small patch on the walking area reminds that in Wismar was turned one of the first horror movies of all times - Nosferatu, by Friedrich Wilhelm Murnau, in 1922.  On the other side of the square, a noisy group of youngsters, are screaming from the top of their lungs while taking selfies surrounded by some freshly discharged garbage. Maybe there is some dark side of Wismar after all...

The rest of the square keeps the same architectural pace, with the well-coordinated geometry as the main visual feature. Almost every single colourful or bricked-house has an inviting restaurant or cafe or icecream parlour. As Wismar is not a highly touristic place, the prices are moderate and at the first sight, the service looks friendly. You only need to have some extra time to taste each and every one of it, which I am obviously - as usual - out of.

For a couple of minutes, I am mixing up with the local, accompanied by dogs or children or just on their own, crossing the big park. Jogging and cycling is also possible, and it looks like one of the city's biggest natural attractions.

The architecture calls me back on the beaten paths, with more house-admiration on Krämerstraße.

The side-streets, even emptier, are also an attractive view, and I am meeting again the river Grube, this time from the Frische bridge.

At the first sight, the architecture of the Fire Station reminds me of some patterns I've encountered in Hamburg. No wonder, as the architect Arthur Euler was a follower of the red-brick architecture that created in Hamburg the Chile Haus.

Houses with painted facades, giving short insights about their initial destination, remind me of the stories written on the walls of Bavarian cities like Füssen or some Swiss pretty towns.

If until now, the city was almost asleep for the first half of the day, I am about to meet a completely different vibe once I am entering the port area. There is even a New Orleans restaurant, although  if thinking about the live music and energy of the Bourbon street, the comparison is very unrealistic. 

The restaurants are even more inviting, with the predominant meals being fish-based, Italian style.

From the shores, there are several boat round-trips that can be booked. Most of them last around 1h30 and during the summer, are taking place every hour. Besides the relaxing sea view, one can also enjoy different treats.

For instance, the boat trip I booked, was called Pfannkuchen - Pancakes - tour. For the price of the ticket - 20 euro - you got non-stop pancakes feeding, with apple sauce, plus a drink. Could it be more enjoyable - maybe an icecream tour, for the very hot days.

Once in the waters, there is the maritime industry of Wismar which offers a different perspective on the city and confirms its status as an active merchant Hanseatic city. 

The sun is burning hot, and many of the local residents are enjoying the beginning of the summer from their boats.

Nothing is more quiet than the view of the enormous quietness of the sea. I might love to make an ocean cruise one day as well. 

In the middle of the waters, on both sides of the shore, some funky heads on a pole are smiling to me. They are Swedish personalities, representative from the time when Wismar, like Stralsund and other Northern cities, were under the Swedish occupation in the first half of the 17th century. Apparently, this occupation left non-conflictual traces in the local memory, as the Swedish flag can be seen once in a while waved on the windows of the city's buildings.

Stuffed with pancakes and apple sauce, I am returning to the shores, where a local fair is offering various affordable distractions to both children and their parents. For the adventurous at heart, a pirates boat is open to the public, for selfies and some short histories.

But I will stay on the ground for less than 20 minutes, as I decided to make another boat trip to Island Poel, considered Germany's 7th biggest island, the meeting point between the Bay of Wismar and the Bay of Mecklenburg.

With a population of around 3,000 people, living in several small villages, this 40-sqm. island is made of sandy beaches and salt marshes. It's neighbouring Island Walfish, which is well praised for its ornitological richness.

Although the parking spots in the port look busy, there is a certain stillness that breathes on Poel.

As my time is very limited, I am aware that all I can do during this small encounter is to take note of the possible attractions that might make it into a full stay on the island in the near future. 

As for now, I am just happy to breath deep the holiday spirit and dream about a full week of travel one day...That's the role of travel sometimes, to just call your name for even more and more adventures, which is exactly what I am looking for right now.

The architectural style I encounter is relatively simple, more suited for warehouses than for living spaces, but at least there is a hope of natural freshness indoors, as the red stones might keep the hotness at bay for longer than other construction materials. 

For museum lovers there is also a small Inselmuseum - with some miniature land of buildings and historical moments in the backyard, the remains of a Roman wall as well as a lighthouse which is completely out of reach for my short stay. I am not fully convinced that I have to come back, but definitely more research might change my mind one day.

Back on the firm ground and famished, I offered myself the chance of having one of those fish sandwiches - salmon, not hering - that are one of the typical foods for this part of Germany, generously served on the many old-style counters. 

At the end of the trip, I kept asking myself: was it worth to wait for so long to visit Wismar? After all, it was a quite simple trip, without a big overload on the to-do-list, but relatively interesting from the historical and architectural point of view. Every trip is different, and my full day in Wismar is one of the many travel stories in Germany added on my bucket list. 

For more travel stories, follow my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ilanatravels