A Musical Sunday Summer at Chorin Abbey

Less than one hour away from Berlin, there is a place that resonates a lot with classical music lovers in the capital city and Brandenburg: Chorin Abbey. This former Cistercian monastery that underwent secularisation in the 16th century is a noteworthy meeting point for all those in love with a good classical concert. 

Between 22nd of June and 25 of August, here are taking place every Sunday, in the afternoon, around 2 hours of quality music. Some are listening from a comfy place inside the monastery concert hall, some prefer it outdoors, on their blanket while having a family picnic. 

A tradition for over 50 years, I made it there only the last week. As usual, my one-day trip involved more than music, and only opened the eyes and the appetite for at least another adventure to come in the next weeks.

Reaching Chorin is relatively easy and all you need is a 13 Euro ticket, plus a short commuting from Bernau (b.Berlin). For the first time in a long time, I was welcomed by a train station which looked a bit different than the usual derelict buildings I've been used to in the last trips. Nearby, a bike parking place, as the area is a favorite destination for cyclists from around the area. 

Outdoor activities are encouraged by the pristine nature surrounding Chorin. I was relatively familiar with it when I went to visit the Schorfheide natural reserve a couple of years ago. The abundance of green adds on to the sense of calm that breathes the streets. Pretty houses hiding behind colourful flowers with hardly a car on the road, the perfect rural retreat not too far away from the urban life.

For the guests of the classical concerts, there are buses taking them for free from the train station, with return hour after the concerts are over. Otherwise, one can slowly walk the little bit over 2 km. walk to the Abbey. It is an easy ride, and all you need is comfy shoes and the moderate preparation.

We arrived at the abbey from the backyard, meandering mysterious doors and hiding places. As it is less than 30 minutes before the concert start, there are plenty of people taking the chance of some fresh breathes of air, but there are still enough remote areas where you can hardly meet anyone.

The ruins are taken over by the nature and the human intervention was only for allowing the visitors an easier ride, by setting up stone stairs and bridges.

Before of after the concert, a round walk around the Amtssee is a mind-soothing experience. It takes around 2 hours of slow walking and it is worth the experience of pure enjoyment of moderate wilderness.

The red-brick building, a trademark of the Cistercian Gothic architecture, the monastic order the abbey belonged to, are making an appearance behind the lush vegetation, and now I know that it is time to head back to the concert area.

There are so many temptations around, including a very old restaurant and some beer gardens, but I promise myself to be back in a couple of weeks for a full tasting of Chorin, plus an overview of the many art galleries open in the area.

But people are hurrying up for the music event and I am following the crowds. The tickets for the summer concerts can be purchased other online, or on the spot. The number of places indoors is limited, but for outdoors - our choice, which costed 8 euro - you can have it any time. 

The sound is as good as inside, and unless there is some threat of rain, you can fully enjoy the experience. At the entrance, there are many food stalls with various treats - a bit overpriced, but this is the price you pay for some good bio goodness, it seems - so even if you did not bring a heavy basket with you, you can have some small guilty pleasures during the concerts.

I often asked myself how in Germany it is possible that even though there is a massive amount of people everyone is so quiet. Like a mass of voiceless bodies are moving slowly in a perfect pace, but without the need to utter any sound.

Indoors, everyone took its place and are waiting for the performance. The guest orchestra this time is from the neighbouring Polish Szczecin, and it plays a classical mix which includes also Mozart. Since its creation, the abbey was an important player in the relationship with the neighbouring Slavic territories and nowadays, several German-Polish projects are developped in the area, many of them focused on cultural dialogue.

Although it was abandonned for centuries - following the conversion to Protestantism of the rulers of Brandenburg, in the first half of the 16th century - the massive Gothic architecture, one of the most important in Brandenburg, is still impressive visually and architecturally.

The efforts to save the old monastery, which among others, was used also as a livestock farm, were initiated by the famous architect Schinkel, in the 19th century, who convinced the Prussian kings that those ruins are worth the preservation not only for cultural, but also for nascent national reasons. 

The Cistercian order was created in 1088, originating from Cîteaux, near Dijon, preaches values such as austerity and self-sufficiency, elements that were at a large extent resonating with the nascent national identity the Prussians themselves were trying to build. Therefore, the appeal of Schinkel  for an investment in saving the ruins after a visit here, called home more than he probably imagined.

The first part of the concert is filling the air with an exquisite energy. The music takes over everything, and once listening, you hardly notice anything, but the united sound of the fast instruments. It is an exemple how music and culture in general, can embelish and enoble souls, wild nature and even weather. The rain forecast for the afternoon are apparently on hold for now.

During the short break, it is about time to visit the rest of the abbey and have a look at the various exhibitions tracing the long history of the building and the monastic order in general. The details of the architecture are fascinating though and are telling their own history with a loud voice which does not need too much cultural or historical background.

There is a certain ambiance that was probably part of a larger mentality continuum at the time, aimed at a specific representation and projection of the religious feeling. Indeed, the order was austere and less interested in an extrovert manifestation of the belief, but the small details of the construction and the permanent dialogue between light and darkness was there for more than an aesthetic reason. 

The small details are part of the history and I am enjoying to take picture of those little elements that beautify the place.

For the Romantic mindset of the 19th century, ruins were an important element of a way of being and seeing the world as a place of loss and permanent reminder of human fragility and short stay on this earth. Some places like castles were left as a ruin on purpose, as in the case of the Heidelberg castle. Surrounded by the untainted green grass, it looks for me as a huge cemetery, where history is burried.

Cistercian monks were hard workers and they had relevant contributions not only to the field of architecture, but also in diverse domains such as agriculture and metallurgy. In the Middle Ages everything was connected to religious activity, therefore, the monasteries were both centers of learning with access to knowledge which further allowed the development of technique and science that at least for a couple of centuries mored it remained wrapped in the covers of religion, until secularisation reclaimed its own mental space.

Once the concert is over, I take over the hiking path for bringing the cultural insights into the nature. What can be better than a wondering through the nature with a mind full of intellectual ideas and cultural concepts? It's the perfect environment for a discussion in two or just for solitary random thoughts. The surroundings are not disappointing.

Like in life, the path takes to ups and downs, easier and less easier turns, where you need more focus and self-restrain.

The houses are looking are hiding in a very discrete way, with their presence noticed only if you want to direct your eyes at an upper level.

Everything looks remote and I am enjoying the post-concert hike more than I thought. I was expecting just a relaxing walk through the forest without too many intellectual challenges. It seems that the historical overview of the place plus the architectural impressions and the classical concert brought enough food for thought that will stay with me for more than a couple of hours. Maybe for days. Maybe for weeks.

The only question is now: when I will return to Chorin to reveal even more interesting corners both for the curious mind and the nature lover soul?

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How to Spend a Walking Day in Bad Saarow

I am no stranger to Bad Saarow, that I visited several times a couple of years ago. Although this destination under 2 hour away from Berlin is famous as a spa town, I've always been here either for the architecture or for the nature walking. This time, I am back again, introducing Bad Saarow to my friends that I convinced it is worth a ride from Berlin.

The weather is mild, with only some moderate wind and no rain in sight. Go away spa temptation, we don't need you...we have everything we need to keep walking, after all those hard office business days. We start the ride near the train station, slowly checking around looking for some places where we can eventually have a lunch later. That there is no place where you can pay with card it is no surprise for any of us, but that in a place where is clumsily written in German that it is only cash accepted to see a nicely written announcement that you can pay in Bitcoins, that's really surprising. Things are moving either too fast, either too slow, it seems.

We head direction Kurpark, crossing the bright Seestraße, bordered by trees whose nakedness make the avenue even more larger. 

The architecture of Bad Saarow is a noteworthy point of attraction. Although many of the typical houses with clock-wise twitched wooden roof were destroyed during the war or thereafter consumed by fire, some of them are still used, a testimony of the work of a unique urban style. 

But if you are less into houses and design, Bad Saarow offers beautiful landscapes, starting with the peaceful Scharmützelsee. I am doing enough meditation and yoga is not always my sport of choice, but in the middle of such a landscape I let myself embraced by the silence, close my eyes and breath deeply. The best free anti-stress therapy.

Regardless if I travel or I am hard working in the city, I am trying to walk at least one hour the day. While walking I put my life together, get rid of negative energies and get back on shape. Especially when I am surrounded by nature and my steps are accompanied by the bold singing of birds, the recovery is even faster. We start the big round of the Schmeling Rundweg.

From under the clouds, the sun is smiling to us. It is a very easy walking, and no previous practice is needed. Just a pair of comfy shoes. 

Discretely placed away from the main walking road, there are still some of the houses designed by the Jewish architect Harry Rosenthal for personalities in the inter-war period that spent their weekends and summers here. Similarly with Buckow, Bad Saarow was preferred by many artists but also but the representatives of the emergent middle class. The house from the picture, was the property of the boxing champion Max Schmeling where he moved here after the marriage with the actress Anny Ondra.

Since my last trip, many more traditional houses were renovated, keeping alive a unique urban project. At the end of the war, many of those houses were occupied by the representatives of the Soviet Army, neglected thereafter because the communist Germany was often lacking the money for such investments.

When there was not enough space, local minds found a way to create them. A former electricity and water facility was turned into a small hotel, for instance, adding one more accommodation opportunity for the short or long-term visitors to Bad Saarow.

Back into the city, with our lungs refreshed by the early spring crispy air, we are ready to leave Bad Saarow. As everywhere around Berlin, new copy-pasted ad infinitum white buildings appeared here in the last years too, adding a cold, neutral white splash to the typical irregular former unique architecture. I am more tempted to love the old classical Bad Saarow, but I am also curious what the future have in sight for this place. Most probably, to check the next steps, I might bring my friends more often to this place. After so many years and many trips later, it keeps charming me. 

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What to do in Zossen bei Berlin

When I boarded my one hour and a bit trip from Berlin, I did not think one single second that I may have something to do there. My plan was to go further on to the more known Walsdorf-Wünsdorf, a former bunker city that you can reach theoretically by foot.

Situated in the Teltow-Fläming area of Brandenburg close to the Schönefeld Airport, Zossen was put on the Germany map since the second half of the 19th century, with the opening of the Berlin-Dresden rail connection. The trains from Zossen were going directly to the Potsdamer Bahnhof, at a time when this part of Berlin well known today for being the headquarters of Berlin Film Festival was becoming an important transportation knot in the Eastern part of the new country of Germany.

Those times of glory are long gone and on the Wednesday mid-day when we visited we crossed path with less than 0,01% of the 19,000 current residents. As many young people commute to Berlin for work and leisure, no wonder. However, we enjoyed the remoteness of the place.

Not too many directions are needed to reach the central area. Straight from the train station, you arrive in the center of the little town where you can have everything: the traditional for this part of Germany red-bricked city hall, surrounded by colourful benches waiting for being seated and shared some local little gossips. 

Nearby, there is one of the most important local cultural attractions: the Schulmuseum - open to the public only on Thursdays and Saturdays between 10 and 12 o'clock - which also hosts an art gallery and a café.

A long time during the Prusian times a garnison city - together with Wünsdorf - and once occupied by the Soviets a residential area for Russian military, Zossen is still searching for its architectural identity. The former occupiers of the buildings left and after a quarter of a century many buildings are derelict and completely abandoned. 

The historical memory is mostly built upon the wars, with a monument in the memory of victims of the two big wars erected discretely on the side of the main central area.

Completely empty, with the exception of a kebap store which is bubbling with life like the sizzling oil in the pan, without customers though, the main square which still keeps the memories of the former water wells looks like an architectural simulation. Everything was newly repainted and renovated in the last years and make it into a nice setting for public concerts or celebrations. Nothing so far right now and there are no visible announcements about some happenings. Maybe after so many historical turmoils, Zossen needs an ahistorical break.

It seems that the past was not always as simple and raw as a military training. Some delicate Art Nouveau-influenced house decorations offer a beginning of a local alternative history which might be written one day. It makes you think that Zossen also had some interesting local middle-class stories to tell. 

As we visited the place at the beginning of the spring, I indulge in a bit longer nature wanderings. You can, for instance, go fishing at the Melensee, or support the local businesses by buying some homemade honey. For me, just walking is enough for enjoying the mild season and the longer light hours. 

Discovering the city by foot allows me to see much more than an average travel guide - if you find any dedicated to Zossen, let me know - could reveal. For instance, the former Electricity factory - Elektrizitätswerk - which similarly with the former industrial spaces of Oberschöneweide in Berlin - was redesigned to accommodate new tastes: dance and yoga classes, cultural happenings and various local events.

Did I mention that our plans were to use Zossen as a departure point for visiting Wünsdorf? After a couple of intensive hours of exploring, the decision was to explore it at a different time. More about this in the next post...

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Eberswalde, besides the Zoo Adventures

My travels were very limited lately, as I've spent the last two months working hard to a couple of projects and exploring various business opportunities. The break is over now, and I am ready to continue my adventures of putting as many off the beaten path German destinations on the travel maps.

Eberswalde was often mentioned in the discussion with my friends with children, being recommended for its Zoo, an outdoors park hosting unique animals. One hour away from Berlin by train, with a 8.40 daily ticket - combined with the AB monthly card - its colourful murals made my curious to explore even more.

Alongside Eisenbahnstraße, former industrial residences display a modest glamour which hardly reminds the times when Eberswalde was an important industrial center in this part of Germany.

Nowadays, former factories are hidden behind forests dressed in the golden-reddish shades of autumn. Many people, including some of those we shared the bikes' section with, are coming here for foraging which makes Eberswalde a perfect destination for nature lovers in Berlin looking for a fast fix.

After a couple of meters of walking, we are faced with the remains of what used once to be the first Europe's horshoe nail factory to use machines for production. The former 25-ton wagon lift nowadays hidden under the trees was powered by a hydraulic system which would raise a railroad car in maximum 15 minutes. Those were the days!

The wellbeing of the residents of Eberswalde, many coming here encouraged by the constant development of industrial facilities starting with the 17th century is reflected also in the details of some residential areas, with the beautiful colourful doors being probably a sign of social status.

Eberswalde also went through the communist revolution, with displays of working class professions favored at the time, showed on the high walls of the blocks of flats

When there is so much work to do, you need to take a break once in a while. The Alte Brauerei - Old Brewery - is welcoming his guests with homemade beers since the late 19th century. Nowadays, there are some live music and dancing events hosted here too. Another local attraction which involves a bit of food is the Roh Kao, a chocolate factory which was unfortunatelly closed the day we visited.

Which gave us more time to explore the colourful, newly renovated old quarter, with its timebred houses and one-storey buildings with red flowers on windowsills.

The autumn colours are matching pretty well the entire neighbourhood which with hardly someone out on the cobblestone streets looks very much out of our times.

The main market square has a more modern vibe, with a modern architecture and plenty of eateries full of people. Part of the square has in its center a statue of what is introduced as a young lady, in her early 20s, with a screaming attitude. Art is always a matter of taste, after all.

The other side of the square looks more entincing for me, with its mix of styles and colourful facades which remind me at a certain extent of Poznan.

The city hall is by far one of the most stylish construction, with the elegant curves of the roof and its adorned balconies. It also displays an open message of tolerance and acceptance of the difference, which make it even more sympathetic to me.

Luckily, we decided to travel in what looks like one of the last screams of the autumn, with only a couple of leaves still holding tight displaying an unique combination of natural colours.

Nature is moderately allowed to stay in the urban landscape, with an interesting tree structure left alive under metal sheets covering an outer house wall. 

After we've seen so many interesting things already, the trip to the Zoo, by bus, from the central area, is no more the highlight of our trip. You can see animals freely roaming and playing, but after visiting many many Zoos all over Germany and the world I wasn't extremely impressed by what I've seen. However, if you want to offer an outdoors adventure to your active children, you may also find besides the animals some playgrounds and climbing areas that will catch the attention of the little ones.

What I am really looking for right now is some autumn walking, not only for highering up my daily counting of steps. I've spent too many hours on a chair, indoors, in the last weeks, therefore I need some extra action. Slowly walking through the forest is one of the best medicine I ever had and the background is encouraging me to keep indulging in my walking habits.

In the middle of a little slice of wilderness, a former mill was turned into an alternative cultural center, most probably the only one center of young creativity in Eberswalde, Zainhammer Mühle. 

Accompanied by the autumn colours, I continue my walking meditation, joining many other locals, some of them together with their dogs, which are enjoying the outdoors walking outdoors.

With so many green woods - after all, the name of the town includes the word 'wald', which means forest in German - no wonder that here there is also a big botanical gardens park - Forstbotanischer Garten, were I am spending another batch of calories.

Back to the concrete world, it is very hard to figure out where I am, as I am passing a long row of manicured lawns and perfectly neat 1-2-story houses. Could it be London?

Karl Marx Platz with its empty park and the rememberance monuments to the WWII victims reminds me that I am in Germany though. As the evening is about to descend, the streets are becoming completely emptier.

For us, it is time for lunch, at Il Castello, in the old city. A plate of homemade Gorgonzola accompanied by a healthy glass of Montepulciano Italian red wine fills-in the energy lost in hours of urban hiking. The food is fine, the local is children friendly and with a fast service so we are relatively fine with our choice.

Our visit to Eberswalde is not over yet. In the train station, we learn something more about this place, besides its industrial past and zoo: here were created in 1832 the Spritzkuchen, a doughnut-looking glazed fried-pastry. It is one of my favorite sweet eats during this time of the year, and I am glad I've traced its history also.

It's so good to be back on the road and I can't wait to continue my adventures in the next weeks.

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